Mád Cuvée, Tokaj – 2009 – Hot Picks – High-End White – The SOMM Journal
“An impeccably fresh, clean version of sweet Tokaji without the ultra-intensity of 5- or 6-puttonyos styles can also be a good thing. The luxury cuvées are a bit much for, say, a simple crème brûlée or pached pear – plus it’s a lot harder to sell a dessert wine for more than $30 a glass than for less than $15. Did I mention that the Mád is also ravishing? Buckets of honeyed white-peach and lilting, flowery, mango-like perfumes lead to a bright, lissome, almost Germanic palate (9.5% alcohol), and a satiny, unctuous, Sauternes-like sweetness (138 grams per liter residual sugar). This is Furmint with 15% Yellow Muscat and 10% Hárslevelü (have fun quizzing your geeky guests on that last grape).”
