Aromas of crips orchard fruit, pear and apricot, mingled with hints of fresh bread and pastry, introduce the latest release of Gosset's NV Brut Grande Réserve, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy but incisive wine that's deceptively generous but also structured to reward some bottle age.

The nose opens with the fresh ripeness of yellow apple and highlights of Granny Smith. It has beautifully subtle autolysis on the palate, deepening into notes of creamy apple crumble, Golden Delicious and Mirabelle plum, while remaining utterly strait-laced. Elegance, length and absolute freshness are inherent and quietly convincing.

Sleek, with a vivid backbone of acidity well-meshed with flavors of black cherry, lemon curd and toasted brioche. Lightly plush and creamy texture, with hints of smoke, candied ginger and honeycomb on the finish.

This too is quite aromatically discreet with its Meyer lemon, brioche, green apple and yeasty nose.There is excellent intensity to the wonderfully fine flavors that combine power with finesse, all wrapped in a crisp, very dry and notably more complex finale. This is terrific and a wine that could be enjoyed now or held for further development.