Walter Fissore’s focus on Novello’s Ravera cru makes a powerful case for specialization. He produces four Barolos, all from Ravera, all from the wines that surround his farmhouse, and his wines seem to get better with each vintage, regardless of conditions. Vigna Elena is a singular wine, the only Barolo made entirely from Nebbiolo rosé, once thought to be a Nebbiolo clone but now shown to be a separate yet closely related variety...

The silky texture and graceful profile provide a setting for strawberry, cherry, rose, iron and tobacco flavors in this red. No pushover, this features a solid structure that emerges on the long, earth-, leather-, mineral- and tobacco-tinged aftertaste. Once fully integrated, this should be a beauty. Best from 2022 through 2042.

Perfumed and structured, this wine opens with alluring scents of rose, tobacco, mint, underbrush and woodland berry. The vibrant, focused palate offers intriguing tension and intensity while at the same time showing finesse, delivering red cherry, raspberry, licorice and baking spice tones framed by firm tannins. Drink 2023–2043.