Feature Coverage

In Beaujolais: Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Dominique Piron and Thillardon

“The famous windmill of Moulin-à-Vent sits at the heart of this 620 hectare Cru in Beaujolais, in the village of Romanèche Thorins. And just below it is the impressive Château du Moulin-à-Vent, which has been renovated extensively since it was acquired by Jean-Jacques Parinet in 2009. Parinet originally came from Beaujolais but then made his money in the IT business, and for the last three years he’s been assisted by Brice Laffond, who oversees both the winery and the 30 hectares of vines the domaine owns.

“There are 130 parcels of vines here, and gradually they are being trellised, although it’s not possible to use cane pruning in the crus – the vines must be head trained. In the winery, the degree of destemming depends on the grapes and the vintage, but typically just 30% whole bunch is used.

“Parinet says that his first surprise was to find that there was a real identity in the wines corresponding to specific areas in the appellation, and overall he thinks it’s important for the region to focus on the specificities of the crus. His approach is one of aiming for high quality. These are ambitious wines, quite polished, but they’re also really good. I wasn’t expecting to like them as much as I did. The regular Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2014 is very fine with quite a bit of power to the expressive, mineral fruit. Croix de Vérillats 2014 is even better, with a haunting perfume of floral black cherry fruit and fine spicy notes. Champ de Cour 2014 and La Rochelle 2014 are also very fine.

“We also sampled two older wines. The first, a 1991, was beginning to show the first signs of decay, but also had some mature elegance, and the second, a 1976, was beautifully elegant and pure with brightness and focus – this had aged beautifully…”

Jamie Goode, June 18, 2016
In Beaujolais: Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Dominique Piron and Thillardon