“Often the most aristocratic and challenging of the Montrachet grand crus, this 2007 is both supremely elegant and uncompromisingly mineral in its expression. The sensitive, biodynamic farming Domaine Leflaive practices in the vineyard results in a wine that is unusually resistant to oxidation, allowing a taste to follow the evolution of the structure and flavors over the course of a week. That may sound like it would require inhumane discipline, but this wine is so powerfully concentrated that it is difficult to taste or drink until it has been open for several days. What’s fascinating about the wine’s severity is the voluptuous curve that’s present but just out of reach, a compelling lusciousness made up of kaleidoscope of fruit scents, from pear blossom to apple, white peach, pineapple and star fruit. There’s also a delicate spice character, with scents of ginger root and chamomile flower revolving around the saline minerality. Chris Hallowell described it as ‘insanely majestic,’ a phrase that sums up it’s unnerving power.”