“The annual chef seminar [at the New York Wine Experience] kicked off with an open question to the panel from Wine Spectator executive editor Thomas Matthew, who asked how a wine list should best serve diners.

“The annual matchmaking contest’s rules are straightforward: Each chef (in Meyer’s case, his North End Grill chef, Eric Korsh) makes a dish to feed 1,000 hungary guests. Using only a description of the dish, another chef tries to find the ideal wine pairing. [Thomas] Matterws chooses another wine for each dish, and the audience votes on the best match.

“Next on offer was Meyer’s slices of torchon of pig trotter with parsley salad and red wine vinaigrette. [Chef Jose] Andres, who called the dish brilliant, said he chose a cava to match ‘because it’s like a party in the mouth.’

“But [Chef Danny] Meyer called [Thomas] Matthews’ Chianti an inspired choice, saying, ‘I thought the wine would be great with the trotter but did not appreciate that the acid would have absolutely no problem with the parsley, shallots and mustard.’ The audience chose the Chianti.”