The 2016 vintage is the first since 2008 in which Royal Tokaji has released the full range of its aszú wines, including single-vineyard bottlings from its top parcels. The season’s warm, humid summer allowed for ample botrytis to develop on the grapes the Royal Tokaji team then made multiple passes through the vineyards over the course of several weeks, picking the fruit a berry at a time to ensure only healthy botrytis. This bottling comes from one of the region’s most hallowed vineyards, where the volcanic subsoil is covered with a deep layer of loess. the wine is as complex as it is delicious, with notes of lemon zest, smoke and stone balancing out the dense, sweet notes of roasted peach and pear. The flavors last, youthful in their energy and delicate in their detail, holding their vivacity for more than a week after the bottle has been open. This should age for decades, though there’s no reason not to enjoy it right now.