This wine shows soft lime and stone fruit characters that mingle with snow pea, jalapeño and a little wet stone minerality. On the palate it's focused and texturally interesting, with balanced acidity, lime zest and a salty edge.

Concentrated notes of Key lime, apple and tangerine are vibrant, floral and expressive, with touches of lemon skin and lemon verbena on the juicy finish. Drink now. 900 cases made, 112 cases imported.

The 2017 Coddington Chardonnay has a fresh, well-defined bouquet with fine mineralité and hints of white flowers. This is backward and clearly needs more time. The palate is taut and fresh with a killer line of acidity, plenty of citrus fruit and orange zest and flint-like notes toward the persistent, razor-sharp finish. This is a top-notch Coddington, but be patient. Tasted at the Kumeu River Chardonnay vertical in London.

Kumeu River's 2017 Coddington Chardonnay was barrel-fermented and aged in 25% new oak. Marginally tighter and more structured than the estate bottling, it offers hints of struck flint on the nose, followed by notes of wet stone, nectarine and pineapple. Medium to full-bodied, it's loud, lush and long, with hints of pencil shavings on the finish.

Black cherry, black currant, rose and charred oak flavors mark this silky red. Quickly firms up, with a lining of mouthcoating tannins on the spicy finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 265 cases made, 33 cases imported.

Black currant and violet flavors are the hallmarks of this concentrated version. Sandalwood, toast, iron and light, appealing vegetal notes lend depth. Long and persistent on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2043. 274 cases made, 25 cases imported.

Rich and smoky, with ample flesh, sweet, ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit and well-integrated spicy oak notes, all underlined by a vein of mineral, lingering nicely. All the components are present in the right proportions, but this needs time. Best from 2024 through 2042. 275 cases made, 25 cases imported.

Pretty floral, cherry, raspberry, cinnamon, sandalwood and mineral flavors permeate this racy red. Concentrated yet effortless, gliding to a long finish. Shows excellent balance and energy. Best from 2023 through 2045. 260 cases made, 24 cases imported.

Supple and fleshy, evoking black cherry and cassis flavors, supported by notes of sandalwood, oak spice and tobacco. Tightens up on the finish, where dense yet ripe tannins prevail. Powerful and needs time. Best from 2023 through 2036. 340 cases made, 53 cases imported.

Saturated with black cherry, blackberry, iron, earth and subtle black pepper aromas and flavors, this red exudes power and confidence, backed by dense yet well-integrated tannins. The finish echoes the concentrated fruit and vibrant profile. Best from 2023 through 2045. 400 cases made, 63 cases imported.

Perfumed with rose, sandalwood and red berry notes, this is silky and elegant. Lays across the palate like a gossamer scarf, featuring beautifully integrated tannins and a long, detailed aftertaste that reveals a minerally accent. Shows terrific harmony and complexity. Best from 2022 through 2040. 450 cases made, 47 cases imported.

Charred oak and mint aromas lead off, masking the ripe cherry flavors that emerge on the palate. The tannins are firm and slightly sinewy in the balance, yet there is meatiness underneath. This should come around nicely and drink well in the medium term. Best from 2023 through 2038. 250 cases made, 54 cases imported.

Dark and brooding, this red is monolithic for the moment, with black cherry, blackberry, iron and earth flavors tightly interwoven with the dense structure. Sandalwood, smoke and spicy oak nuances add detail. Overall this is ripe, balanced and muscular. Be patient. Best from 2024 through 2045. 399 cases made, 55 cases imported.

Fragrant, juicy and floral up front, with pretty notes of peppery white flowers that mingle with lime, white grapefruit and apple flavors, set on a crisp, linear body. Shows plenty of tension from the vibrant acidity and lingering minerality. Drink now. 500 cases imported.

Aromas of musky peach, orange oil and citrus blossom introduce the 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé, a medium to full-bodied wine that's supple and satiny, with a pretty core of fruit, racy acids and a mineral finish. Bright and precise despite its demonstrative fruit tones, it's already showing well.

The 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthières is also performing well, delivering a complex bouquet of pear, Meyer lemon, fresh bread, nutmeg and apricot. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and incisive, it's bright and nicely balanced, with sneaky depth at the core and a penetrating, delicately saline finish. It will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.

The 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé En Bertillonne mingles notes of orange oil and yellow apple with hints of beeswax and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's a textural, elegantly muscular wine girdled by bright acids, concluding with a penetrating finish.

The 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras opens in the glass with hints of blanched almonds, fresh pastry and crisp yellow orchard fruit. Medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, it's less overtly textural and more introverted than the other wines in the portfolio this year, and I suspect it will flesh out to fine effect with a little bottle age.

Based on the 2016 vintage and disgorged in September 2019, the new release of Gosset's NV Brut Grand Blanc de Blancs (which will arrive in the US later this year) unwinds in the glass with notes of citrus oil, warm biscuits, green apple and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, deep and tightly wound, it's racy and incisive, with a bright spine of acidity, chalky structure and a long, penetrating finish. As ever, this cuvée emphasizes Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims.

Based on the 2014 vintage, the new release of Gosset's NV Brut Grand Rosé is still quite tightly wound after its recent disgorgement in November 2019, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange rind, crisp orchard fruit and warm biscuits. Medium to full-bodied, deep and muscular, it's bright and chalky, with racy acids and notable phenolic structure, complemented by a pinpoint mousse. It will really begin to show all its cards after a few years on cork.