The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots La Réserve de l'Obédience is showing well, offering up aromas of crisp yellow apple, citrus oil, toasted almonds and warm bread, framed by a patina of oak that integrates nicely with a little time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, muscular and structured, it's firm and mineral, built around an appreciable presence of dry extract. Youthful and introverted, it will be fascinating to revisit with a few years in bottle.

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé is matured half in stainless steel and half in barrel. There is a strong oyster shell, marine influence on the nose that is very attractive. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, good salinity with a twist of sour lemon on the finish. This delivers everything you want from a Pouilly-Fuissé and if you can resist its charms it should give several years of drinking pleasure.

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé En Bertilionne comes from limestone soils at around 320m altitude (although it is not proposed for Premier Cru status if authorities permit.) It has a strict, stony bouquet dominated by the terroir - almost austere and Zen-like. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry and shows a little more weight than the Pouilly-Fuissé Village, quite textural on the finish. This is an excellent showing from one of the appellation’s lesser-known vineyards and it should give 10-12 years of drinking pleasure. Excellent.

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras sports a lucid pale straw hue with green tints. It has quite a rich bouquet for Vers Cras with traces of wild honey and honeysuckle infusing the vivid citrus fruit, reminiscent of a fine Chassagne-Montrachet in some ways. Very good definition. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity that counterbalances the richness locked into this Vers Cras. It is not the most mineral driven wine that I have encountered from this outstanding vineyard, yet it is vivacious and full of tension on the finish, hints of pineapple and stem gingers tingling on t

Just mid crimson. Perfumed, lifted cherry fruit with iron hints. Fine cherry fruit with a layer of dark tannins on the palate. Long and perfumed and finely balanced.

Lustrous ruby. Iron, tar and cherry with hints of cardamom. Generous, yet with a medium-bodied weight. Concentrated, tangy, dark fruit with polished tannins. Far from ready.

A sombre, brooding beast packed with dried fruits, savoury spice and a mineral stone edge balanced by a refined, elegant structure.

The 2017 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard shows the more finessed side of the Arista house style. Orchard fruit, white flowers, lemon confit and white pepper give the 2017 a striking register of brightness to play off the rich, viscous fruit. This textured and super-explosive Chardonnay has a ton to offer.

The 2017 Chardonnay U.V. El Diablo Vineyard brings together all the best elements of the Arista house style. Rich, bold and luscious, with no hard edges, the 2017 is a real showstopper. Apricot, honeysuckle, orange confit, wildflower, butter, tropical fruit and honeyed notes all race across the palate in this deep, stunning and creamy Chardonnay.

The 2017 Chardonnay Banfield Vineyard is powerful, but also tightly wound, with a lot of energy to play off of the rich, luscious fruit. The Banfield has a real phenolic feel of structure. This is the coolest site Arista works with for Chardonnay. I would give it a few years in bottle to come around, as it is a bit austere, its considerable richness notwithstanding.

The 2017 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley) is rich, bold and luscious - all qualities that make it an excellent choice for near- and medium-term drinking. Apricot, tropical fruit, lemon confit and white flowers give this bold, textured Chardonnay tons of personality. This is an especially flamboyant style.

The 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) is bold, luscious and easy to drink. Sweet tobacco, cedar, mint, licorice and orange peel add nuance to this super-expressive Russian River Pinot. I would prefer to cellar it for a year or two. It is a stellar wine at the appellation level. There is a lot going on in this wine of great aromatic presence.

The 2017 Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard shows gorgeous presence and terrific depth, but it is also a touch reduced at this stage. Ripe red cherry, pomegranate, espresso, mint, spice and hard candy are front and center. This is an especially lush Anderson Valley Pinot.

Two-thirds Cabernet Franc and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon have created a richly structured, deliciously perfumed wine. The tannins and ripe black fruits are just beginning to soften in this wine from the Lefaivre Loire estate's biodynamic grapes. Drink from 2021.

This wine is approaching maturity. Ripe apple and almond flavors have softened and opened up, giving intensity. Biodynamically grown grapes bring all their flavors together in a beautiful wine, created by Anne-Claude Lefaive and continued by husband, Christian Jacques, in her memory. It can be drunk now but will be better from 2021.

A rare red Grolleau, this wine has earthy aromas that lead to black fruits and firm tannins. Produced from biodynamically grown grapes, the wine still has rich potential. Drink from 2021.

The 2017 Chablis Les Bouguerots Grand Cru is a bright, inward, tightly coiled wine that is going to need at least a few years in bottle to unwind. White flowers, citrus peel, white pepper, mint and chalky notes abound. The Bouguerots is marked by its taut, nervy feel, but there is plenty of substance waiting to emerge as well. It is one of the highlights in the range.

The 2016 Chablis Les Bouguerots Grand Cru is reduced to only one demi-muid this year (although this is still more than there will be in 2017!) The bouquet needs a little more definition, touches of yellow plum and oyster shell, are quite feisty in style rather than elegant. The palate is well balanced with a spicy, stem ginger-tinged opening, fine depth although personally I seek more precision and mineral-tension to come through on the finish.

The 2017 Chablis Les Montmains 1er Cru is bright, lifted and finely cut, with tons of energy that give the wine its sense of focus. White flowers, citrus, orchard fruit, mint and pineapple all develop in the glass, but it is the wine's taut feel that stands out most. This is another compelling wine from Laroche.

A cool, pure and very pretty nose features notes of mineral reduction, green apple, iodine and tidal pool. There is an attractive texture to the delicious, intense and well-detailed middle weight flavors that aren't super-dense but they do offer fine depth and persistence on the youthfully persistent lemon-tinged finish. This is worth checking out.