Valter Fissore’s 2016 Barbaresco fires on all cylinders, weaving together flavors of perfectly ripe plum, black cherry and tarragon. It feels bold, taut and chiseled, with polished tannins, carrying the wine to a harmonious, expressive finish.

Jean-Pierre Mareigner made this wine and bottled it in 2013; Odilon de Varine, who took over as cellar master in 2016, disgorged the vintage in 2019. It’s two-to-one chardonnay to pinot noir, though the fruit ripeness of the pinot noir contributes more than its fair share of plum and red-blushed peach to the savory depths of flavor. As it opens, the brink yellow-apple flavors develop intensity, the pure flavor of fruit picked fresh, the incipient scent of apple blossoms. Tina Vaughn of The Simone described that fruit depth as “musky, delicious, sexy.”

This wine’s flavors seem to be carved out of chalk, its fruit mellowed to notes of Marcona almond, toast and white mushrooms, its structure firm and classical. It’s a blend of chardonnay from Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, achieving its richness without malolactic fermentation, so there’s a sharp line of acidity adding a chalky grace note at the end.

An impressive wine from a challenging vintage, this is brisk and cool, with tense muscularity to its structure. The wine’s brash savor parallels a meaty stock, with smoky complexity and tannins powering the lasting orange-and-red-fruit buzz. Decant it as a main course wine with white meats.

A pale-pink rosé, this has shades of raspberries, rosehips and rhubarb touching the earthly limestone scent of Champagne. It’s concentrated and lasting, with a clean quinine bitterness that will pair well with sashimi.

Walter Fissore’s focus on Novello’s Ravera cru makes a powerful case for specialization. He produces four Barolos, all from Ravera, all from the wines that surround his farmhouse, and his wines seem to get better with each vintage, regardless of conditions. Vigna Elena is a singular wine, the only Barolo made entirely from Nebbiolo rosé, once thought to be a Nebbiolo clone but now shown to be a separate yet closely related variety...

Valter Fissore’s Ravera is brilliant in the warm 2015 vintage, striking a balance between fleshy cherry fruit, fresh florals and chiseled tannins. The wine feels generous yet precise, the flavors and aromas amplifies by the lively acidity that draws them out in a long, vertical finish.

This is a balanced, food-friendly example of Marlborough Sauvignon succeeding despite a tough vintage. The nose is all about the citrus fruit: lemon-lime and grapefruit, with some soft grass and green herbal notes in the background. The mouthfeel is creamy but buoyed by bright, crisp acidity. Tangy citrus fruit lingers on the long finish.

A fruit-driven style, with lush black currant, raspberry and boysenberry pâte de fruit flavors, carried by velvety tannins. The long finish features a graphite edge and lingering anise and apple wood notes. Delicious, and showing a bit more depth than most '17s. Best from 2020 through 2035.

Offers a broad, creamy feel, with macadamia nut, piecrust, glazed pear and creamed yellow apple notes, backed by flashes of ginger and brioche on the finish. A lush, seductive wine. Drink now through 2021.

This is tightly structured and dense, with burly tannins wrapped around cherry, plum, licorice, tar and menthol flavors. It's difficult to see where this is going today, but the finish is long and will need considerable time to hit its stride. Best from 2023 through 2042.

The silky texture and graceful profile provide a setting for strawberry, cherry, rose, iron and tobacco flavors in this red. No pushover, this features a solid structure that emerges on the long, earth-, leather-, mineral- and tobacco-tinged aftertaste. Once fully integrated, this should be a beauty. Best from 2022 through 2042.

A supple texture and harmony are the hallmarks of this alluring red, setting you up for pure flavors of cherry, raspberry, licorice, mint and tobacco. A solid backbone of tannins provides support. This should develop nicely over the medium term. Best from 2021 through 2033.

A blend mainly of Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, Gosset's deluxe cuvée has been well aged. With its edge of toastiness and the still-vibrant citrus and white fruits, the wine is at a beautiful, poised moment, though it will continue to age even further.

Gosset is Champagne's oldest producer, founded in the 16th century, and this blanc de blancs takes advantage of its well-established connections by sourcing Chardonnay from 15 different villages. The base wines are aged on lees after the primary fermentation but malolactic fermentation is blocked in order to retain the house's characteristic zinginess. The result is prickly, saline, lemony and tight, with some mouth-puckering apple, citrus and herb flavours. Light and focused, there's a touch of nuttiness on the finish....

Sleek, with pinpoint focus offering harmonious Meyer lemon, candied almond and fresh ginger flavors that fan out on the crisp finish. Drink now.

A toasty version, with sleek acidity sculpting the layers of Meyer lemon peel, papaya, toasted brioche and lime blossom flavors. Tightly meshed, with a well-cut, lingering finish of smoky mineral. Disgorged May 2018. Drink now through 2024.

Alluring and nuanced, with expressive pear, brioche, and caramelized hazelnut flavors that finish on a rich, polished note. Drink now. 6,250 cases made.

This is a very powerful and concentrated vin santo, which smells like tarte tatin. It also has some apple acidity, but that doesn’t stop it feeling rather massive on the palate. Drink now.

Lifted, gracious and beautifully perfumed the 2013 Vinsanto del Chianti Classico is a wine with real character. Dried orange peel, dried flowers, autumn leaves and almonds are woven together in a Vin Santo of real distinction and class. The blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia, both white varieties, yields a wine that emphasizes aromatics and mid-weight structure.