Deep ruby-red. Perfumed aromas of red cherry, raspberry, sweet spices, and fresh flowers. Clean, suave and round, ripe red cherry and vanilla flavors are complicated by hints of grilled nuts and marzipan. Finishes very clean, not to mention juicy, on the very long, very bright back end.

Bright straw color. The aromas of peach and herbs recall those of the 2017 Catarratto and 2017 Inzolia from Feudo Montoni. By contrast, it is much richer and spicier on the palate than those two wines, with pungent flavors of melon, candied grapefruit peel and lychee. Closes with noteworthy salinity and vibrancy. Made from organically farmed grapes.

Luminous straw yellow. Delicate aromas of lemon, lime, sage and minty herbs. With aeration a note of Moscato Bianco-like orange blossom, grapefruit and sweet spices emerge. Fresh and juicy, with very good vibrancy to the flavors of fresh citrus fruits and minty herbs. The finish is long and juicy, offering a hint of powdered rocks on the tail end.

Bright deep red. Mineral and sweet spices complicate red cherry and botanical herbs on the nose and in the mouth. Long and very lively on the juicy, suave back end. Lovely stuff.

Medium deep straw yellow with golden tinges. Ripe aromas and flavors of apricot, balsamic oils, bergamot and guava. Round and tactile but also very fresh in the mouth with hints of orange oil complicating flavors of grapefruit and mountain herbs in the mouth. Finishes long, multilayered and dense. An outstanding Catarratto. Owner Fabio Sireci tells me these are old vines of the Catarratto Lucido variety, a rare situation as the grape produces ver

Dark ruby-red. Clean, precise aromas and flavors of dark cherry, minerals and tar, plus a lively note of violet; strikes me as much darker than in the past. Suave but youthfully chewy, with a dense mouthfeel and a brooding quality on the long back end; this will likely improve with another year in the cellar. Finishes very long and spicy.

This is the year dottore Franco Biondi Santi would pass away, leaving the Brunello appellation orphaned because he was its most beloved and respected paternal figure. A wine shaped very much in his memory, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is a stunning edition, with a tight inner core of wild fruit and natural acidity surrounded by elegant tones of blue flower, wild cherry, cured tobacco, balsam herb and camphor ash....

Almost Côte de Beaune in style, with toasty oak framing the lemon, apple and mineral flavors, until the steely structure exerts itself. With air, this comes together beautifully, in a balanced, harmonious way. Decant now or wait a year or two. Drink now through 2025.

Subtle and elegant, with peach, apple and flint flavors gaining lift from bright acidity. A mouthwatering finish echoes the fruit and mineral elements. Drink now.

This is ripe, bursting with peach and melon flavors, along with a lush texture and vibrant structure. Concentrated yet fluid, with a sunny personality and a juicy finish, revealing a hint of mineral. Drink now through 2023.

There will be some 3,000 bottles of the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots La Réserve de l'Obédience, a barrel selection from Laroche's considerable holdings in this important lieu-dit. The wine wafts from the glass with aromas of blanched almonds, Meyer lemon and white flowers that are brighter and a touch more defined than the regular bottling. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and multidimensional, with excellent concentration and a deep, ti

More dramatic and expressive than Les Clos, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots bursts with aromas of mandarin, almond paste, lemon oil and ripe orchard fruit. On the palate, it's full-bodied, glossy and textural, with a gourmand attack but a tense, saline mid-palate and finish.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is very promising, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus zest, preserved citrus, almond paste and sweet white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, chewy and concentrated, with a firm, tight-knit core and juicy acids. It's still very young and unevolved, but I look forward to seeing it from bottle.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes reveals a subtly oak-inflected bouquet of apples and pears, followed by a medium to full-bodied, chewy palate with lots of quasi-phenolic structure. Like the Montée de Tonnerre, it's too early to get a clear read on its ultimate quality, but the raw materials are very promising.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes exhibits aromas of crisp peach, green orchard fruit and honeysuckle. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, concentrated and chewy, with lots of tense, taut structure and tangy acid. Right now, it isn't fully formed—but it's promising.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is more blocky and foursquare, revealing notes of citrus zest, pastry cream and tart orchard fruit, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated palate that's firm and stony. If it rounds out with further élevage, it will be excellent.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Bouguerots is a dense, fleshy wine that unfurls in the glass with notions of tart green apple, wet stones and spring flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and textural but underpinned by tangy acids and concluding with chalky grip.

Toasted spices and a wealth of intense plum-paste, as well as tarry notes. The tannins are assertive and gently chewy, right at the limit of ripeness and extract. Drink or hold.

Good fruit-definition in terms of aromas and flavors here. Fresh, brambly, summer berries with blood-orange and wild-herb threads. The tannins are firm, but polished. Enjoy now or hold.

Brilliant violet. A sexy, expansive nose evokes smoke-accented dark berries, candied licorice and a hint of potpourri. Sappy, well-delineated black and blue fruit preserve flavors show vibrant mineral lift and no rough edges. In an ample but surprisingly energetic style, finishing sweet, floral and extremely long and revealing just a whisper of fine-grained tannins.