– Leslie Sbrocco

Ultimate Buying Guide: Top Scores 2006

“Fleshy but streamlined, with an inner core of concentration to the toasty oak, pear and mineral flavors. Citrus acidity and lead pencil tones linger on the finish. Drink now through 2010.”

“A clean and refreshing style of chardonnay from just north of Auckland, this has good fruit intensity without a lot of volume. The orange pith scent and the light but lasting finish provide an edge for any fresh catch, particularly scallops.”

“Starts off citrusy, but those notes are rounded out by ripe apple and melon flavors. This off-dry, round-in-the-mouth Pinot Gris then picks up subtle spice and pepper notes on the finish.”

“Brilliant, zingy and ultimately subtle, with layers of stony, minerally character around a lively core of pineapple, lime and green apple flavors, lingering effortlessly on the bracingly tart finish. Has miles to go. Drink now through 2014.”

The 2017 Estate Chardonnay has a fresh, well-defined bouquet of citrus fruit complemented by subtle scents of brioche and almond. The palate is taut and crisp on the entry with a twist of sour lemon. Very saline in the mouth, not powerful but full of tension. The aforementioned saline tang lingers on the aftertaste. Superb - one of the best Estate releases in recent years. Tasted at the Kumeu River Chardonnay vertical in London.

Enticing and very fresh nose of sliced pears and flowers with hints of almonds and vanilla. A great combination of vibrant fruit and silky texture, this tightly wound, medium-bodied chardonnay is just beginning to unfurl its long banner. Great mineral freshness at the pristine finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Kumeu's estate Chard is a blend of six different sites. Despite a few years in bottle, it's still relatively closed, showing a restrained toasty character along with red apple, pineapple and orange rind. The palate is more generous in a satiny texture and seamless backbone of acidity, accompanied by tangy, citrusy flavors and woody undertones. Drink now–2022.