The 2018 Anjou Cabernet Franc is serious and structured, showing the ripeness of this vintage in its breadth, ripe fruit and slightly heady aromas. Produced from 45-year-old vines that yield 35–40hl/ha, this is soft and tender on entry, but the tannins build like a square frame, leaving a structured finish. Integrated use of oak is evidenced by a hint of vanilla from a small percentage of new barrels (less than 10% new). The finish is fragrant with lingering violets and savory notes.

The 2018 Anjou Cabernet Franc is serious and structured, showing the ripeness of this vintage in its breadth, ripe fruit and slightly heady aromas. Produced from 45-year-old vines that yield 35–40hl/ha, this is soft and tender on entry, but the tannins build like a square frame, leaving a structured finish. Integrated use of oak is evidenced by a hint of vanilla from a small percentage of new barrels (less than 10% new). The finish is fragrant with lingering violets and savory notes; there is a question over the light barnyard element and the slightly drying finish...

Ginger spiced fresh apricot, orange blossom, marmalade and a hint of flint on the nose. White pepper-dusted apricot and ripe persimmon, with crystallized ginger spiciness and raisin, dried apricot complexity follow through. With the highest residual sugar level among all six 2017 Aszú releases of Royal Tokaji, Nyulászó maintained a well-lifted body, thanks to its solid varietal acidity and more layered flavour profile. Honey-glazed grapefruit gives it a moreish finish.

“The Mézes Mály ('honey pot') 'Great 1st Growth' with its loess soils presents the most distinctive nose among the six 2017 Royal Tokaji Aszús; bruised pineapple, sour citrus, crushed stone and a hint of raspberry candy over an undertone of mango and apricot. An earthy palate of ginger, acacia honey and warming yellow fruits, balanced by chalky acids and citrus peel bitterness, which follows to the finish. Salivating and morish.

The Szt.Tamás Aszú has a lifted nose of apricot jam, bruised apple and a hint of fresh sourdough. Spiced and honeyed on the palate with ginger and white pepper, grapefruit peel bitterness, marmalade and dried apricot. The acidity is more mellow than the Gold Label, although it still provide an excellent backbone. Ginger and dried fruit notes linger on.

“The Betsek site is rich in clay, dark humus soils and chalk-white mineral. Jasmine and freshly-cut ginger open up to marmalade, honeyed yellow fruits, with a touch of beeswax. Ginger and tangerine peel bitterness provide an extra dimension to the rich core of apricot and marmalade, lifted by mineral acidity. The finish is pure, honeyed and long.

The latest rendition of Gosset's NV Brut Grand Blanc de Blancs reveals youthful aromas of citrus zest, white flowers and almond paste. Medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy, with tangy acids and a pillowy mousse, it concludes with chalky grip. This Champagne's structure suggests that it should develop gracefully in the cellar.

Notes of tangerine, peach, white flowers and wheat toast preface the latest rendition of Gosset's NV Brut Grand Rosé, a medium to full-bodied, pillowy and charming wine with a fleshy core of fruit, chalky structure and tangy acids. Elegantly vinous and flavorful, it's a fine success.

Aromas of crips orchard fruit, pear and apricot, mingled with hints of fresh bread and pastry, introduce the latest release of Gosset's NV Brut Grande Réserve, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy but incisive wine that's deceptively generous but also structured to reward some bottle age.

A bigger and more powerful wine than the regular 2016 (although that had two years more in the bottle), this is fairly intense and less evolved. It maintains many of the other themes, including reasonable mid-palate finesse (although the 2016 wins there), good structure and perhaps a high-toned hint, although not really an issue here. (I'm wondering if perhaps there is something in the grape blend producing that.) Overall, this is very well crafted with a refined feel.

Much along the same lines of the 2020 release I saw last year, this is a gentle 20-Year with a hit of sugar and a very youthful feel. The extra year in bottle has tamed the sugar just a bit, so this does seem a little better balanced now. That extra year doesn't change the rest of the picture, though. This remains very gentle and understated, perhaps even more so. There's not a lot of power, but it has enough depth to balance the fruit and sugar.

Dark cherries, plums, chocolate, vanilla and cedar on the nose. It’s medium-to full-bodied with polished tannins. Layered and creamy.

A mouthful of black currant, blackberry, violet, cedar and iron lends immediate gratification in this polished red. Vibrant and balanced, with a long, firm finish that echoes dark fruit and mineral.

More obviously tawny in colour than the 10 Year Old. More complex aromas too. Dried fruits and candied peel but also a more nutty quality with caramelised fruit. Rich, deep and beautifully fresh on the palate with an intense flavour of caramelised orange and orange peel. Excellent integration of the spirit here, mouth-filling but finishes fresh even with all that sweetness. Very long. Impressive.

Very dark like the skins of black cherries. Complex aroma of black fruit, dried cherry, the beginning of a leathery aroma. Smooth and dense on the palate, the tannins thick and smooth. Still very youthful, and at the tipping point between fresh fruit and bottle-aged flavours. Chewy, generous, rich.

Still lots of red in the colour here, just some tawny colour at the rim. The spirit is so well integrated that you don't notice it on the nose and the rich aroma of dried fruits and dried citrus peel are to the fore, and still some notes of red fruits. Smells remarkably young and fruity for a 10-year-old tawny. Sweet and smooth with a marked caramel and caramelised-orange flavour on the palate. Zingy, generous and harmonious. A really good 10-year-old packed with fruit and incipient complexity. Fresh and persistent.

Juicy and plump in feel, with toasted raisin bread, cinnamon, bergamot, mulled cherry and fruitcake notes streaming through nicely.

Elegant and focused, with a mature bent to its mix of cinnamon, tea, sandalwood, date and caramel notes. Stylish finish has a twinge of walnut husk keeping it grounded.

Alluring violet, black currant and black cherry fruit introduces this seductive red, with firm, pointed tannins and vivid acidity providing structure as this glides to a lingering, detailed finish.

Marked by ripe, fresh black cherry and black currant fruit, this red is fleshy and bright, with eucalyptus, tobacco and earth accents adding detail as this winds down on the solidly built finish.