The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise, persistent finish. This is a gorgeous Bienvenue. Drink 2022 - 2048.

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of lemon thyme, crushed limestone, and traces of orange pith and citrus peel that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is underpinned with a fine, almost razor-sharp bead of acidity. There is a wonderful crescendo of flavor here, leading to a multifaceted, lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers with a saline aftertaste. This is sheer class, a tremendous Chevalier-Montrachet. Drink 2024 - 2055.

The 2018 Meursault Sur le Dos de l’Ane has a very intense bouquet that is actually quite Puligny-like in style. The palate is well balanced with a saline tang on the entry, modest depth and a spicy, energetic finish. Fine. Drink 2020 - 2028.

Outstanding. An attractively layered nose combines lovely floral notes with those of citrus peel, pear and soft spice hints. The racy and tension-filled medium weight flavors possess excellent detail on the palate coating finish that is at once clean, dry and, minerally and youthfully austere. I would further observe that this is a wine that has made considerable progress over the last 10 years, and the 2018 is only the latest confirmation of that progress. In short, this is really quite promising. Drink 2028+

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru suffered more millerandage than others this year. In fact, Brice de la Morandière confessed that the vines are constantly being threatened with being grubbed up and they will review the situation every three years. This has a taut nose, very well defined, and more reserved and stonier than the Clavoillon, with alpine streams and dewy pasture scents unfurling in the glass. The well-balanced plate displays a saline tang on the entry, just a touch of orange peel and quite a spicy, persistent finish. Excellent. Drink 2022 - 2040.

Outstanding. A slightly riper though still noticeably cool nose features notes of lemon confit, essence of pear and apple compote with pretty floral wisps. The mouthfeel of the markedly stony medium-bodied flavors possess a real contrast between the relatively supple mid-palate and the powerful, serious and citrus rind and quinine-inflected finish that is quite dry but not really austere. This too is very promising. Drink 2030+

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru was one cuvée that was showing a little more reduction when I tasted the barrel sample. Skipping the aromatics, the palate is very well balanced with notes of orange peel and white peach, and a little more lime toward the finish compared to Les Combettes. Good length on the aftertaste and a little more viscosity. Very fine. Drink 2022 - 2040.

Aromas of plums, balsamic and walnuts follow through to a medium to full body with medium chewy tannins and a juicy finish. Very attractive now. Drink or hold.

Open and accessible, with a dollop of warm ganache laid over a core of warm plum and blackberry preserve flavors. Shows just enough juicy energy to offset the toothy, extracted edge on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 20,000 cases made.

A vague whiff of the exotic floats above the equally Chablis-like nose of floral, iodine, seashore and that lovely hint of tidal pool. Delicious, round and relatively forward medium-bodied flavors possess evident minerality on the dry, firm and refreshing citrus-tinged finish.This is not especially persistent, at least not at present, as the back end is a bit attenuated, yet I suspect that this will round out nicely with a few years of bottle age.

A distinctly cool and saline-inflected nose reflects notes of citrus, quinine and a hint of sea breeze.The delicious, minerally and nicely chiseled medium weight flavors possess very good mid-palate density before terminating in a dry, chalky and almost salty lemon-tinged finish. There is a very subtle hint of warmth and while this isn’t super-complex at present, more depth will almost certainly develop with a few years in bottle. I would add that this is quite crisp in the context of what is typical for the 2018 vintage

Ripe yet cool aromas mix plenty of floral influence with a whiff of wood, iodine and algae. There is very good energy to the well-detailed yet rich middle weight plus flavors that exude evident minerality and salinity on the dry, powerful and palate coating finish. This is a big but balanced wine that is robust to the point of rusticity though I suspect that will age out with a few years of cellaring. But make no mistake, this is a muscular Les Clos.

Notes of menthol and wood toast set off agreeably fresh aromas of earthy and peppery aromas of dark currant, violet and newly turned earth.There is again an attractive texture though not quite the same density to the medium weight flavors that flash a touch of minerality on the better-balanced and lingering finish. While this could certainly be enjoyed now, I would suggest allowing it at least a few years of cellaring first.

Once again there is ample menthol and wood influence present on the very fresh nose of warm earth, various red berries, plum and a pretty violet whiff. The succulent but decidedly punchy medium-bodied flavors possess a slightly more refined texture while delivering fine length on the ever-so-slightly warm finish. This could use more depth, but the development potential appears up to the task. Worth checking out.

Generous amounts of menthol and oak stop just short of fighting with the more complex aromas that offer up plenty of pepper, spice and baked plum. The supple, round and relatively easy-going middle weight flavors possess an expansive mid-palate that tightens up immediately on the tightly wound finish that makes clear that this will need at least some patience first. With that said, this is not so structured that it couldn’t be approached with pleasure in a few years.

Once again there is whisper of the exotic in the form of lychee on the fresh aromas apple, essence of pear and white peach. The sleeker,more intense and stony middle weight flavors possess notably better persistence on the balanced, clean and agreeably dry finale. This too could use a bit more depth,but it should be capable of developing more with a few years of bottle age.

Schramsberg 2016 Crémant Méthode Champenoise Demi-Sec (Napa Valley). With a dry, floral nose, this lovely sparkler is a blend of 68% Flora, 31% Chardonnay and 1% Pinot Noir, with 15% barrel fermentation. Sweet, unctuous layers of peach, pear and vanilla biscuit are lifted by a balance of fresh acidity and underlying structure, making for a cohesive experience on the palate.

Aged for at least 12 years after bottling, this Champagne is richly textured, showing mature fruitiness, touches of aging from the brioche flavors and an elegant, ripe aftertaste.

A finely textured Chardonnay, this is ripe and crisp with acidity, minerality and hints of nuttiness from bottle age. From the Côte des Blancs, the fruit in this Champagne has given a pure line of acidity and total textured freshness.

Heading towards dryness, this pale-colored rosé Champagne is also rich. Its red-currant and crisp apple flavors are laced with citrus zest to give a wine that has fine balance.