The Elvio Cogno 2019 Dolcetto d'Alba Mandorlo is a beautifully fragrant expression of the grape, with impressive purity and focus. Dark cherry and fresh blueberry are followed by crushed limestone or white stone. The wine is only aged in stainless steel, and the vineyards see calcareous-rich soils. The wine is lean, almost mid-weight in terms of density, but it shows the simple balance and harmony to pair with Ascoli olives, or olive ascolana, that are fried and stuffed with minced pork and bread crumbs. Some 10,000 bottles were released.

A wine that always turns heads, the Elvio Cogno 2019 Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello Anas-Cëtta is a mid-weight, glycerin-rich white made from an indigenous grape that is rare and dear to the region of Langa. There are aspects of this wine that remind me of the Arneis grape (another local favorite). The wine's smooth and creamy mouthfeel is one element shared between the two. So are those aromas of honey, white peach, pear and acacia flower. Aged in both stainless steel and botte grande, this wine has the textural richness to pair with white meat and even a few red meat dishes. An ample

Of the four Elvio Cogno Baroli out on the market now, this wine is the most immediate and accessible of the bunch. Production is an ample 20,000 bottles. The 2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova is a terrific wine with impeccable balance. The bouquet offers dark fruit aromas, licorice, smoke, tar and spice. These aromatic pieces slide together with precision to create an intriguing and multifaceted puzzle. It shows good fruit weight and concentration, reinforced by firm tannins, freshness and a silky mouthfeel. This is a terrific go-to Barolo from a classic vintage. The wine is fermented in stainless ste

Of the many great contributions made by the winemaking team at Elvio Cogno, perhaps the greatest is the importance they brought to the Ravera cru of Novello. Little-known before their efforts, this vineyard has risen in high regard in recent years and continues to show impressive potential. The 2016 Barolo Ravera offers an important education in why this site deserves the spotlight. The wine shows terrific balance and depth, with rich fruit aromas framed by smoke, tar, ferrous earth and tangy licorice. The tannins are softly contoured, and the wine moves over the palate with profound length...

The Elvio Cogno 2015 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice delivers the depth, richness and concentration that are a hallmark of this pretty vintage. This wine is a pure expression of the productive Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Generous layers of blackberry, wild cherry, rose hip, ferrous earth and campfire ash are neatly folded together to build the wine's intensity. Like the other wines from this estate, the tannic management is spot-on. You are aware of the wine's youthful structure, but it is delivered without hard edges or sharp points. A mere 4,000 bottles were produced.

The Elvio Cogno portfolio concludes with the special 2014 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena. This wine from the cooler 2014 vintage stands far apart from the other new releases from the 2015 and 2016 vintages also hitting the market at this time. Ephemeral, fragile and delicate, the wine shows a softer caliber of fruit, with wild berry, cassis, smoke, tar and powdered licorice. There are earthy notes at the back with truffle essence and forest floor. This vintage offers a heightened level of complexity and nuance. This wine is a pure expression of the Rosé clone of Nebbiolo that is known for i

Esprit comes from the vineyards at the foot of Mount Sainte Victoire. A blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and rolle, it offers more flavor than the pale pink color predicts: Bright, limey acidity and wild-strawberry notes are underlined by the savor of wet stone and garrigue. It’s ready to pair with an herb omelet.

This wine is a blend across the estate, producing rich tannins and juicy black fruits. Good acidity balances the structure of the wine, giving potential as well as present fruitiness. Drink ideally from 2021.

Aromas of white peaches, dried flowers and hot stones follow through to a medium body, creamy texture and a fruity finish. Dry at the end. Fun for this grape type. Nicely done. Drink now.

Blueberry and dried-lemon aromas and flavors with medium body, bright acidity and a clean, fresh finish. Real dolcetto. Drink now.

Vivid, bright fruit with strawberries, flowers and orange peel on the nose. Full-bodied, round and tannic, yet there’s lots of fresh, ripe fruit with some citrus undertones. Needs two or three years to soften. Better after 2023.

Enticing scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry and an earthy whiff of truffle shape the fragrant nose on this dazzling wine. The delicious, full-bodied palate boasts structure and a weightless elegance, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cherry compote, cinnamon and star anise. Taut polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an elegant structure. It's already irresistible but will also age well for years. Drink 2022–2035.

Rose, woodland berry and baking spice shape the nose along with crushed mint notes on this fragrant red. The savory, polished palate boasts succulent raspberry, ripe strawberry and white pepper before taut tannins and bright acidity reveal a firm, elegant structure. Star anise lingers on the finish. Drink 2023–2036.

Like the Pucelles, the 2017 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is quite tensile and reserved, unfurling in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, iodine, orange rind and creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural and fleshy, but taut—even firm—at the core, with good concentration, tangy acid and a bright, chalky finish. Like all these releases, I'm looking forward to seeing it from bottle.

The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with a reticent bouquet of lemon rind, citrus, hazelnut cream, white flowers and mandarin oil. On the palate, it's full-bodied, both denser and blockier than the Bienvenues-Bâtard, with exceptional concentration, tangy acids and a long finish. Today, the wine is only partially formed, but it's immensely promising. Pierre Vincent told me that it attained 12.8% natural alcohol, but despite that rather modest degree for a grand cru white Burgundy, it displays plenty of power and substance.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru delivers a vibrant but reserved bouquet of lemon zest, white flowers and crushed chalk that is still some distance from displaying all its breadth of expression. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and tensile, with a tight-knit core, searingly intense chalky extract and an electric sense of energy, concluding with a long finish. This is the most linear Chevaliers I tasted in the 2017 vintage, which was typically somewhat more open at the same stage in Anne-Claude's day, so it will be interesting to see how much plenitude it displays in bottle.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane offers up aromas of green apples, tart Anjou pear, spring flowers and mint. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration and chewy extract—Leflaive performed a green harvest on this young vines this year—underpinned by juicy acids and concluding with a pure finish. This is a promising Meursault in the making.

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé derives from multiple parcels in Soultré and which now sees the same élevage as the domaine's wines from Puligny. It's showing well, exhibiting aromas of ripe lemons, beeswax, dried white flowers and blanched almonds, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny-textured palate with more flesh, concentration and length than any of the Mâcon-Verzé bottlings.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon is excellent, and a clear step up over the Puligny Village, something that can't be taken for granted. Offering up aromas of lemon, beeswax, white flowers and blanched almonds, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely concentrated, with tangy acids, chewy extract and a long, precise finish. It's promisingly tight-knit and should develop further before it's bottled.

Transparent and linear with currant and cherry aromas and flavors. It’s beautifully fine and bright with crushed cherries and berries and hints of strawberries. Pine needles and fresh herbs, too. Very silky tannins and a palate that shows poise and polish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.