This domaine’s 1.6-acre Aux Bouthières parcel is deep clay without calcareous rock, planted to vines 55 years old. In a lineup of Pouilly-Fuissé, it stands apart, the terroir speaking in the complexity of the wine. The flavors are bold and completely clean, and though the entire lot aged for a year in oak barrels (30 percent new), the wood influence comes through in cedar and foresty highlights, in richness adding to the elegance of the citrus and apple flavors. A brisk Pouilly-Fuissé suited to several years of bottle age.

Opening in the glass with notes of ripe pears, confit citrus, nutmeg and warm bread, the 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthières is medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, with an unctuous, chewy mid-palate, ripe acids and a saline, expansive finish that displays plenty of sucrosity from ripe grapes.

The touch of spice in this wine adds richness to its white fruits. It gives a wine that is both ripe and textured, with lively acidity at the end. This will be a fine wine from 2021.

A little more creamy/mealy than the En Bertilionne, a little less spice in the aroma. Fuller in the mouth, more power and intensity to the fruit but no loss of freshness. This is very classy Pouilly-Fuissé with a long finish and good ageing potential...