With very good reason, we have high expectations when Schramsberg’s latest Blanc de Blancs arrives each year, and the 2017 version continues what has become a long string of successes for its maker. It touches all the right bases from its creamy, unceasing mousse to its brightness and very articulate champenized complexity, and it does so with a singular sense of grace. Never timid, but always refined, it is a delight to sip on its own, and it will have very few peers as a match to a platter of fresh oysters served on the half-shell.

The nose of the 2016 Blanc de Blancs is bright and fresh, with scents of quince peel, red apples, floral perfume, brioche and a nutty undercurrent. The light-bodied palate is dry with energetic mousse and a nice balance of mineral and tirage character, finishing with fantastic freshness. 36,209 cases produced. The Blanc de Blancs was the first cuvée Schramsberg produced, in 1965.

The Davies family has been making sparkling wine for 50 years, and this Blanc de Blancs has become their flagship. It’s 100 percent chardonnay and this vintage is firm and clean, with clarity to its pale, juicy apple fruit and savory, chalk-like notes from aging on the lees. Refreshing to drink on its own or with any shellfish.

A dense and layered white with cooked apples, pears and praline. Full body. Plenty of fruit flavor. Fresh and vivid. Vinous and fun. Yet, serious at the end. Drink now.