Camphor, cherry, plum and tar notes highlight this brawny Barbaresco. There is a core of ripe fruit, and the lively acidity keeps this focused on the long aftertaste. Tips to the tannins in the balance. Best from 2023 through 2040. 360 cases made.

Valter Fissore makes this wine from a 2.5 acre plot in the Neive commune. It comes across as broad-shouldered in the warm 2017 vintage, the dark-cherry flavors accented by subtle spice and supported by firm, mineral tannins.

The 2017 Barbaresco Bordini is a potent wine. A blast of black cherry, mocha, spice, sage, earthiness, licorice and smoke gives the Bordini a real sense of gravitas. Neive Barbarescos are known for their breadth. There is certainly plenty of size here. The 2017 is not exactly understated or elegant, but instead packs a serious punch that, not surprisingly, leans into the realm of Barolo.

Vivid, bright fruit with strawberries, flowers and orange peel on the nose. Full-bodied, round and tannic, yet there’s lots of fresh, ripe fruit with some citrus undertones. Needs two or three years to soften. Better after 2023.