A cool, pure and very pretty nose features notes of mineral reduction, green apple, iodine and tidal pool. There is an attractive texture to the delicious, intense and well-detailed middle weight flavors that aren't super-dense but they do offer fine depth and persistence on the youthfully persistent lemon-tinged finish. This is worth checking out.

The 2017 Chablis Les Montmains 1er Cru is bright, lifted and finely cut, with tons of energy that give the wine its sense of focus. White flowers, citrus, orchard fruit, mint and pineapple all develop in the glass, but it is the wine's taut feel that stands out most. This is another compelling wine from Laroche.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is more blocky and foursquare, revealing notes of citrus zest, pastry cream and tart orchard fruit, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated palate that's firm and stony. If it rounds out with further élevage, it will be excellent.