Soft but not invisible wood sets off similar if perhaps ever-so-slightly riper aromas. There is noticeably better mid-palate concentration to the more powerful and serious middle weight plus flavors that evidence excellent minerality and salinity on the bone dry, linear and impressively long finale. This too could use more depth but this could well be outstanding with 10 years of bottle age under its belt.

The 2017 Chablis Les Blanchots La Réserve de L'Obédience Grand Cru offers a super-intriguing mix of floral notes and lovely mid-palate pliancy, all in an understated style that is quite distinctive. Lemon confit, tangerine oil, sage, mint and white flowers are all woven together nicely. Bright saline notes give the 2017 lovely freshness and verve on the finish.

There will be some 3,000 bottles of the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots La Réserve de l'Obédience, a barrel selection from Laroche's considerable holdings in this important lieu-dit. The wine wafts from the glass with aromas of blanched almonds, Meyer lemon and white flowers that are brighter and a touch more defined than the regular bottling. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and multidimensional, with excellent concentration and a deep, ti