Ripened in the ample sun of Les Clos, with its direct southern exposure, this is packed with flavor intensity, straight through to its bright, sunny finish. Laroche owns 2.77 acres of the vineyard, the vines 30 to 50 years old; its 2017 feels vibrant and youthfully grand, with Meyer lemon richness wrapped in smoky, briny soil notes. This has the substance to develop for a decade or more.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is very promising, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus zest, preserved citrus, almond paste and sweet white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, chewy and concentrated, with a firm, tight-knit core and juicy acids. It's still very young and unevolved, but I look forward to seeing it from bottle.

Almost Côte de Beaune in style, with toasty oak framing the lemon, apple and mineral flavors, until the steely structure exerts itself. With air, this comes together beautifully, in a balanced, harmonious way. Decant now or wait a year or two. Drink now through 2025.