The 2015 Moulin-à-Vent is a real showstopper. A burst of dark cherry, spice, leather, menthol, licorice and leather literally races out of the glass. The 2015 is an atypically rich Moulin-à-Vent, but all the elements are so well balanced. It has serious depth and the intensity to age for many years. I would not touch a bottle soon.

A bigger and more powerful wine from a hotter vintage, which shows in the deeper colour. Much darker in colour than the 2016 and much much darker than the 2017. There’s also a sweetness of spicy black fruit, blackberry and damson, which points to a hotter year and perhaps also some new oak. As it opens up on the day after opening, the scent of the 2016 and 2017 starts to appear though without the floral notes. Also that stone-dust character. On the palate, this is firm, beautifully dry and it’s the tannins that, combined with remarkably good acidity, give the freshness on the long finish. Dry

This wine is beautifully balanced, with rich tannins and great concentration. Ripe black fruits dominate the structure, giving it density that is enhanced by the wood aging. The aftertaste is balanced, juicy and ready to drink.

There’s black raspberry richness at the center of this wine, concentrated within tannins that draw their power from both grape skins and oak. Brice Laffond destems this fruit, then cold-soaks it with pumpovers before and after fermentation, so there’s no carbonic maceration of the berries. Then he ages it for a year and a half in oak barrels. The barrel spice comes across in notes of cumin and coriander, charred meat and clove, while the fruit is powerful enough to outlast it with generous umami grace. For the cellar.