Notes of menthol and wood toast set off agreeably fresh aromas of earthy and peppery aromas of dark currant, violet and newly turned earth.There is again an attractive texture though not quite the same density to the medium weight flavors that flash a touch of minerality on the better-balanced and lingering finish. While this could certainly be enjoyed now, I would suggest allowing it at least a few years of cellaring first.

The 2016 Moulin-à-Vent comes across as a more subdued version of the 2015. It has tons of richness and power, but at the same time, it is bright, delineated and full of energy. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, white pepper, mint and spice all meld together effortlessly. Even with all of its obvious intensity, the 2016 retains striking translucence. There is plenty of potential here.

Mid crimson, a little darker than the 2017, and a little darker fruited and opens up in the glass to a darker and more peppery scent, more peony, a little bit like northern Rhône Syrah, as Édouard Parinet points out – and I agree. This has the classic savoury character of Moulin-à-Vent and still the fragrance of thoughtfully made Gamay on granite, a gently dark-earthed aroma. Makes me think of clean, dark friable earth. Dry, elegant and beautifully balanced. Elegant length and dry finely textured finish even though it is still pretty youthful.

Greyish crimson. Lifted dark wild small berries. Fine, dusty tannins that I associate with granite and top-notch beaujolais, and real finesse – paper-fine tannins, wonderful freshness. Tiny little black-berried fruit. Juicy and yet should age. Dark and savoury on the finish but still juicy.