A fruit-driven style, with lush black currant, raspberry and boysenberry pâte de fruit flavors, carried by velvety tannins. The long finish features a graphite edge and lingering anise and apple wood notes. Delicious, and showing a bit more depth than most '17s. Best from 2020 through 2035.

A similar blend, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Boisrenard checks in as 66% Grenache, 12% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and the balance a mix of permitted varieties, that saw 10% new oak. It has a thrilling bouquet of black cherries, cassis, bouquet garni, scorched earth, and graphite. Tasting like a Grand Cru Burgundy with its tension, purity, and elegance, it has building tannins, terrific concentration, and a great finish. Still tight, backward a

Just 5% of this wine is matured in new oak barriques, the rest spending time in old barriques and foudres for 18 months. It's all destemmed fruit, lending a nose of raspberry with lifted notes of bergamot and cinnamon. It's full-bodied, rich and flowing on the palate, with a considerable weight of wet-clay tannins. An opulent style, it hangs on to its brightness and drinkability. 66% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 1% Cinsault, 1% Terret Noir

More Burgundian, with a silky, elegant, finesse-driven style, the 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard is medium to full-bodied and nicely structured, with beautiful purity in its cassis, black cherry, flowers, forest floor, and leafy herb-like aromas and flavors. This wine always picks up depth and richness in bottle and is going to benefit from short-term cellaring.