Intensely ripe layers of cherry and raspberry coulis peppered with notes of warm spice. Hints of tarragon and tobacco emerge with more time, the flavors buoyed by vibrant acidity that will keep the wine fresh in the cellar while those taut tannins soften.

A real beauty, the 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Coltassala (made with organic fruit) shows medium-rich textural fiber with plenty of dark fruit, cherry, spice and leather. The important thing to mention here is how light and elegantly fragrant this wine remains despite the considerable heat and dryness of the growing season. In fact, all those fruit tones emerge with terrific purity and focus, backed by acidity and integrated structure, that invite an evening-long sampling with some medium-aged pecorino.

Aromas of exotic spice, dried aromatic herb, camphor and wood shop shape the nose. The austere palate shows dried cherry, prune and licorice alongside close-grained tannins that clench the lean finish. Give it a few more years so the tannins can unwind then drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Coltassala is striking. Rich and ample, with tremendous depth, the 2017 shows all of the mystique that makes Sangiovese so alluring. Sweet dark cherry, dark plum, leather, licorice, menthol and tobacco build as the 2017 shows off its breadth and personality. The Coltassala has a bit more volume and oak influence than the other Volpaia wines, but it's an approach that works so well here.