Occupying a niche all its own, Schramsberg’s Crémant is, as always, a well-made wine that is at once forwardly fruity with a mannerly sense of autolysis and a wonderfully creamy mousse giving voice to its skillful champenization. Delicious on its own any time that the urge for a slightly sweet glass of bubbly arises, it will serve as a most interesting, if admittedly different, partner to sweet-and-spicy Asian dishes, and will come into its own teamed with all sorts of fruity, not-too-sugary desserts.

Schramsberg 2016 Crémant Méthode Champenoise Demi-Sec (Napa Valley). With a dry, floral nose, this lovely sparkler is a blend of 68% Flora, 31% Chardonnay and 1% Pinot Noir, with 15% barrel fermentation. Sweet, unctuous layers of peach, pear and vanilla biscuit are lifted by a balance of fresh acidity and underlying structure, making for a cohesive experience on the palate.

The 2016 Crémant Demi-Sec is a blend of 31% Chardonnay, 1% Pinot Noir and 68% Flora, an unusual grape that's a cross of Sémillon and Gewürztraminer. It has about 35 grams per liter of residual sugar, as opposed to the roughly nine to 10 grams per liter for the other sparkling wines in the Schramsberg portfolio. It opens slowly to chalk, shell, quince and loads of floral perfume from the base of aromatic Flora. The palate is medium-bodied, off-dry and very perfumed, with lively mousse and a very clean, refreshing finish. This is very well-balanced, aromatically and structurally, with its kiss o