A generous bouquet of marzipan and ripe pears that's subtly framed by new wood introduces the 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé En Bertillonne, a medium to full-bodied, deep and muscular wine that's textural and blocky in profile, with ripe underlying acids and a heady finish. Its structure and concentration are impressive, but it will merit a little bottle age.

Slightly and attractively smoky/rocky on the nose and a complex mix of herbs, spice and green fruits. There's a creamy richness in the texture and lovely depth of fruit, balanced by just-right acidity.

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé En Bertilionne comes from limestone soils at around 320m altitude (although it is not proposed for Premier Cru status if authorities permit.) It has a strict, stony bouquet dominated by the terroir - almost austere and Zen-like. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry and shows a little more weight than the Pouilly-Fuissé Village, quite textural on the finish. This is an excellent showing from one of the appellation’s lesser-known vineyards and it should give 10-12 years of drinking pleasure. Excellent.

Good acidity in this wine goes along with the spice to balance the crisp texture and generous tropical fruits. Drink this balanced wine now.