This is Schramsberg’s top selection of chardonnay (86 percent of the blend). A quarter of it fermented in oak, which seems to point up the wine’s gingery spice. With scents of orange blossoms and notes of tangerine, this is leesy and ripe, a rich style to pour with salmon roe in puff pastry shells.

With an involving mix of sweet cream and toast leading the way and quickly followed by appley nuances and accents of caramel as its rich, nicely aged aromas gradually unfold, the 2009 J. Schram is every bit as rich and far-ranging as promised once in the mouth. If not bright and brisk, its complex, fully autolyzed flavors are not close to being tired, and the wine...

Enticing aromas of toasted almond and pear tart lead to an equally seductive and complex palate that is dry but rich in feel. It has the complexity and layering of a wine aged a long time on the yeast, and shows excellent concentration…

Dynamic and polished, with expressive Meyer lemon and cinnamon nut roll aromas and plush and luxurious baked apple and fresh ginger flavors that glide on a long finish.