The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes possesses an additional level of concentration this year, and it marks a transition in the portfolio between the charming, giving lower appellations and the rather more serious top premiers and grands crus. Unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, orange oil, Meyer lemon, almond paste and citrus blossom, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely concentrated, with fine mid-palate amplitude, lively acids and a saline finish.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru suffered more millerandage than others this year. In fact, Brice de la Morandière confessed that the vines are constantly being threatened with being grubbed up and they will review the situation every three years. This has a taut nose, very well defined, and more reserved and stonier than the Clavoillon, with alpine streams and dewy pasture scents unfurling in the glass. The well-balanced plate displays a saline tang on the entry, just a touch of orange peel and quite a spicy, persistent finish. Excellent. Drink 2022 - 2040.