A harmonious Valpolicella in a richer style, displaying a lovely range of plumped black cherry, star anise, espresso crema, cured tobacco and fragrant smoke notes. The sinewy tannins are well-meshed, but lend weight and definition, and the lightly juicy acidity keeps this focused through to the lasting finish.

The 2013 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is an especially elegant, pretty and understated expression of the Dal Forno style. Black cherries dipped in rum, plum sauce, brown spices and a dusting of cocoa rise up from the glass. It’s silky and polished, seamlessly washing across the palate with plush ripe red and black currants, while leaving minerals and a fine coating of tannin in its wake. Zesty acids add further cheek-puckering tension, as this tapers off structured, with notes of mocha and mentholated herbs lingering long...

From one of the most iconic wineries in the Orientale, this is aged for two years in oak and a further three in bottle. A proper meditation wine, great with game, strong cheeses or a cigar. It has a huge nose of stewed red fruits, ethereal bramble forest fruits and blackberry jam. Generous, with spicy, bitter cherry-stone freshness. Full-bodied with a rich, intense, spicy undertone.

This dense, inky Valpolicella defies a category that is typified by soft cherry-fruited wines. Dal Forno’s Valpolicella goes through a similar process as the family’s blockbuster Amarone (also recommended here), with two years of aging in new oak barrels and three in bottle, though the grapes are dried for 45 days rather than 90. It starts out dark, with notes of dried plum and blackberry, chewing tobacco and roasted mushroom, then brightens to red cherry as vibrant acidity draws the flavors out on a long, complex finish.