Cru Beaujolais is often the go-to for sommeliers and wine professionals, and for good reason. Yes, it’s Gamay, but it’s nothing like the bubblegum fruit bombs of Beaujolais Nouveau that you may have tasted in the past.

This is Beaujolais all grown up. Just south of Burgundy with ten Crus to explore, each offers its own personality and refinement. The Crus from north to south are Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côtes de Brouilly.

All of these regions produce Gamay with structure, and can be cellared for many years. That being said, this more serious version of Gamay is still fruit forward, easy to drink and fun, but offers a more sophisticated and intriguing take on the grape.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2017 Champ de Cour (Moulin-à-Vent); $63, 93 points. A small harvest because of hail has produced this richly concentrated wine. Dense tannins and impressive black fruits are layered with acidity and a tensely structured character. The wine should be aged further to reveal its full panoply of flavors. Drink from 2022. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —Roger Voss