Aromatic whites cast a spell
“I’m deep in the midst of the charmed category designated as ‘other’ as I look through white wines for this year’s Top 100 Wines.
‘Other’ can include the ripe tree-fruit pleasures of good Pinot Gris, which by its name usually signals that someone wanted a bit more flesh and depth in the wine – probably with a nod to Alsace rather than to Italy’s often peckish version.
2010 WillaKenzie Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($21, 13.5% alcohol): Oregon has long banked on the other Pinot as one of its strong points, and this longtime Willamette name taps plantings from the mid-1990s in the Yamhill-Carlton district for a plump but peppy effort fermented in steel. Like a ripe Golden Delicious spiked with thyme.”
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