“There are two entirely different worlds of Pinot Grigio, and American imbibers are slowly catching on to the better one.

“True, there is an awful lot of highly indifferent PG sloshing around, and its very success commercially has tainted the reputation of what is, or can be, delectable, mountainside versions.

“Pinot Grigio, the good stuff, comes from the dramatic valleys in the foothills of the Italian Alps, especially Friuli and Alto-Adige, and can be stunning, and decently priced too, while on the other side of the coin oceans of weak, watery wine grown in commercial quantities on the valley floors is indifferent, at best.

“Completely defies the stereotype of Pinot Grigio as thin lemon-water, the complete antithesis. It’s a superbly crafted, mouthy-filling gem with just hints of pepper and lemon to impart a pleasurable zing the top of the mouth. Ideal for shrimp, scallops, all white fish, and I’d like to try it with swordfish too…”

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