Italian fine wine may be at the top of the investment pyramid right now, but have consumers and critics started to tire of the Super Tuscans? Justin Keay seems to think so, arguing that wine drinkers are moving away from varieties and styles that are concentrated and oaky. Just as he was putting that theory to bed along comes the wines of Tenuta Sette Cieli, made by the talented winemaker Elena Pozzolini, that illustrates how the Super Tuscans can bring a new freshness to their wines – and a sense of cool – even when climate change is making this increasingly difficult.

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As a strong supporter of autochthonous grapes, and someone reluctant to put Bolgheri up there with Italy’s other iconic wine Bs – Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello – I’d have been inclined to agree. But as with everything else in life, there are exceptions.

It came bearing the name Tenuta Sette Cieli, not a producer I was familiar with until four wines arrived on my doorstep, along with an invite to a Zoom tasting with owner Ambogio Cremona Ratti and winemaker Elena Pozzolini.

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