“Seasonal moods and customs dictate the clothes we wear, the foods we prefer and, perhaps in a more subtle way, the wines we select. More subtle because wine choice extends beyond mere temperature in a way that woolen sweaters do not. Even though rosés and gossamer whites are ordinarily associated with summer, powerful reds still appear. Why? Because thick steaks and the wines that love them are never more than a grill away.

“Spring is a transitional season for wines. In the end, weight, not color, is the crucial factor in selecting bottles.…

“I’ve picked 20 great spring wines (listed here randomly) for $20 each.…

“With these 20 bottles, I feel as if I’ve only begun an exploration that could yield dozens more great wines from all over the world. I made my selections without repeating any of the choices I made last summer or fall. All of those wines remain superb choices, even if the vintage has changed, or the season. Remember: it’s not the weather that dictates the wine so much as the food….

“13. Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2009

“Chianti is a wine that I drink year round, and this is an excellent rendition, made entirely of the sangiovese grape. It’s fresh, with smoky, lively flavors of bitter cherry with a juicy, refreshing quality, well structured and balanced.”

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