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“While Beaujolais can be enjoyed year-round, the light-bodied, refreshing nature of Gamay makes these wines perfect for the summer, and a reintroduction to reds as the fall rears its head.

But the fact that they’re easygoing doesn’t mean there isn’t great quality here. Beaujolais wines can offer great expressions of the region’s plentiful terroirs. Many of the best wines hail from the 10 crus, four of which are represented here. However, vintners also explore unique areas within the Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages levels, and sometimes blend from sites in different appellations.

Today’s selection highlights recently reviewed Beaujolais for $25 or less. Some are from the region’s better-known crus, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent. Chénas, the smallest of the crus, is attracting established winemakers who believe it makes ageworthy Gamays grown in its granite, schist and alluvial clay soils.”

CHÂTEAU DU MOULIN-À-VENT

Moulin-à-Vent Couvent des Thorins 2016

Score: 90 | $25

WS review: Light-bodied but backed by focused acidity and streamlined flavors of pure cherry and raspberry, tangy and spicy, flanked by white pepper, tea and herb details. Drink now through 2024. 6,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—G.S.