Just a touch of smoke intrudes upon the lemon freshness and chalky depth appar-ent on this wine’s nose. A hint of passion fruit lends a tropical spin. The palate focuses on an almost candied lemon richness and concentration that suf-fuses itself with the chalky depth of the midpalate. This wine is textured, rounded and generous, yet highlighted by that lemon brightness. It’s a reso-nant, rich wine that will evolve. Drink 2022–2040.

A lifted intensity of lemon and hazel-nut on this wine’s subtle nose promises concen-tration. The palate presents lemon zestiness and a yeasty texture that seems to fizz with freshness. It has lemony resonance, mouthwatering brightness and a rounded body to back it all up.

Bright and creamy, this white exhibits vanilla, lemon cake and peach flavors, with a light salinity underneath. Vibrant and fresh, with a long, citrus-and pastry-tinged aftertaste. Altogether fresh, elegant and harmonious. Drink now through 2024.

A vague whiff of the exotic floats above the equally Chablis-like nose of floral, iodine, seashore and that lovely hint of tidal pool. Delicious, round and relatively forward medium-bodied flavors possess evident minerality on the dry, firm and refreshing citrus-tinged finish.This is not especially persistent, at least not at present, as the back end is a bit attenuated, yet I suspect that this will round out nicely with a few years of bottle age.

A distinctly cool and saline-inflected nose reflects notes of citrus, quinine and a hint of sea breeze.The delicious, minerally and nicely chiseled medium weight flavors possess very good mid-palate density before terminating in a dry, chalky and almost salty lemon-tinged finish. There is a very subtle hint of warmth and while this isn’t super-complex at present, more depth will almost certainly develop with a few years in bottle. I would add that this is quite crisp in the context of what is typical for the 2018 vintage

Ripe yet cool aromas mix plenty of floral influence with a whiff of wood, iodine and algae. There is very good energy to the well-detailed yet rich middle weight plus flavors that exude evident minerality and salinity on the dry, powerful and palate coating finish. This is a big but balanced wine that is robust to the point of rusticity though I suspect that will age out with a few years of cellaring. But make no mistake, this is a muscular Les Clos.

The 2019 Chablis Saint Martin, which had already been bottled, has a charming nose of fragrant yellow flowers, caramelized pear and hints of chalk, all very well defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, revealing a twist of sour lemon toward the finish. This is a very fine entry-level Chablis that deserves your consideration.

The 2018 Chablis Les Blanchots La Réserve de l’Obedience Grand Cru is blessed with a wonderful bouquet: white peach, quince, Japanese yuzu and subtle ground stone scents, all beautifully delineated. The palate is very well balanced with a lively entry and a touch of licorice (not a trait you often find on Chablis, but it works!). Great energy here and real depth. The slightly viscous finish lingers long in the mouth. A superb La Réserve de l’Obedience, even if not the very best vintage in recent years.

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is more open and engaging on the nose compared with the Les Blanchots. There is slightly more terroir expression here, though I would not claim it superior to some of Laroche’s Premier Crus. The palate is much better, featuring sour lemon, lemon sherbet, sage and dill, quite complex, with a very well-defined and persistent finish. Real Grand Cru on the finish for sure – just cellar this for 3–5 years before broaching.

The 2018 Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru offers green apples, lime, sea spray and light grilled almond notes on a nose that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. The palate is well balanced, with a faint tang of dried quince and bitter lemon on the entry. I admire the salinity and savory finish of this Vaillons, though I suspect it will show best in its youth. Maybe I’ll be proved wrong!

The 2018 Chablis Les Vaudevey 1er Cru offers attractive honeysuckle and orange pith scents on a nose that gradually achieves greater delineation with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a lively opening: lemon zest, dried orange peel, and a touch of ginger coming through with aeration. Quite long on the finish, this is a fine, easygoing Vaudevey that I suspect will be best broached in the flush of youth.

The 2018 Chablis Les Blanchots Grand Cru did not quite engage the senses on the nose. Following on from the delightful Côte de Léchet, it is just missing a bit of lift and vigor. The palate is much better, featuring lemon zest, lime and light orange peel notes on the entry, a fine bead of acidity, and a concentrated, quite penetrating finish that leaves a saline aftertaste. I will be prudent with my score for now, hoping that the aromatics will get their act together.

Intense, offering lavender, honeysuckle, apricot, lemon and saline flavors, packed into a creamy texture. Vibrant, converging on the long aftertaste, where lemon and stone elements collide. Drink now through 2025. 330 cases made, 50 cases imported.

Ripened in the ample sun of Les Clos, with its direct southern exposure, this is packed with flavor intensity, straight through to its bright, sunny finish. Laroche owns 2.77 acres of the vineyard, the vines 30 to 50 years old; its 2017 feels vibrant and youthfully grand, with Meyer lemon richness wrapped in smoky, briny soil notes. This has the substance to develop for a decade or more.

Covering a knoll below Vaillons, this 17-acre parcel sustains 70-year-old vines on Kimmeridgian limestone. Aged in French oak foudre, its fruit delivers a bright wine with the immediate richness of a briny shellfish stock, layering langoustine, oyster and scallop freshness into notes of green apple and honeycomb. The wine’s clean power races through sun and shadows with a wow factor that’s unusual for a village Chablis. Delicious.

The 2017 Chablis Les Blanchots Grand Cru is airy in the glass, with a real feeling of translucent energy that distinguishes it in this range. White flowers, citrus, orchard fruit and light tropical accents all grace this understated, nuanced 1er Cru. This is such a pretty wine.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots La Réserve de l'Obédience is showing well, offering up aromas of crisp yellow apple, citrus oil, toasted almonds and warm bread, framed by a patina of oak that integrates nicely with a little time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, muscular and structured, it's firm and mineral, built around an appreciable presence of dry extract. Youthful and introverted, it will be fascinating to revisit with a few years in bottle.

The 2017 Chablis Les Bouguerots Grand Cru is a bright, inward, tightly coiled wine that is going to need at least a few years in bottle to unwind. White flowers, citrus peel, white pepper, mint and chalky notes abound. The Bouguerots is marked by its taut, nervy feel, but there is plenty of substance waiting to emerge as well. It is one of the highlights in the range.

The 2016 Chablis Les Bouguerots Grand Cru is reduced to only one demi-muid this year (although this is still more than there will be in 2017!) The bouquet needs a little more definition, touches of yellow plum and oyster shell, are quite feisty in style rather than elegant. The palate is well balanced with a spicy, stem ginger-tinged opening, fine depth although personally I seek more precision and mineral-tension to come through on the finish.

The 2017 Chablis Les Montmains 1er Cru is bright, lifted and finely cut, with tons of energy that give the wine its sense of focus. White flowers, citrus, orchard fruit, mint and pineapple all develop in the glass, but it is the wine's taut feel that stands out most. This is another compelling wine from Laroche.