Unwinds in the glass with notes of citrus oil, white flowers, green almonds and clear honey. Medium to full-bodied, ample and sanity, it’s lively and quite tightly wound at the core, concluding with a saline finish.

Named after Laroche’s medieval head office in Chablis, this wine comes from selected parcels of Les Blanchots. The wine is concentrated and delineated with acidity, white fruits and a steely textured edge.

Les Clos has the reputation of being the most austere of the grand cru vineyards when it is young. Certainly this tight wine with its tense texture is just at the beginning of its career. Toast and crisp white fruits add openness to this structured wine.

An inflection of green herbs and green fruit marks this round, lively white, with apple, yellow plum and earth notes completing the profile. Excellent length.

Old vines grown on a warm, exposed slope (important in Chablis) give this wine its richness and textured concentration. Ripe apple and tangy lime flavors complement a tight edge that will soften as the wine matures.

A refreshing, lemon-flavored white, accented by green apple and honeysuckle. Balanced and vibrant, leaving a mouthwatering finish.

Apple and lemon flavors are shaded by vanilla in this succulent white, which is balanced, with a tactile feel on the long finish.

A lean, well-defined white, boasting lemon, apple and savory, saline flavors. Racy and firm, with a lingering, tangy finish.

Flavors of green plum, apple and lemon pick up a hint of lanolin in this rich white, whose lively structure keeps it fresh, with the citrus element echoing on the finish.

Flavors of peach, melon, apple and mineral are embedded in the creamy texture of this complex and expressive white, which is balanced and stays in bounds, with good underlying cut and a long, vanilla bean finish. Drink now through 2025.

Creaminess on the nose of this wine comes with the richness of crème fraiche edged with lemon. A velvety palate enforces this bright, mellow creaminess, layering it with chalky coolness pervaded with zesty lemon. The round-ness of 2018is conserved in refreshing smoothness. Depth is already hinted at on the long, smooth and chalky finish. Drink 2025–2045.

Just a touch of smoke intrudes upon the lemon freshness and chalky depth appar-ent on this wine’s nose. A hint of passion fruit lends a tropical spin. The palate focuses on an almost candied lemon richness and concentration that suf-fuses itself with the chalky depth of the midpalate. This wine is textured, rounded and generous, yet highlighted by that lemon brightness. It’s a reso-nant, rich wine that will evolve. Drink 2022–2040.

A lifted intensity of lemon and hazel-nut on this wine’s subtle nose promises concen-tration. The palate presents lemon zestiness and a yeasty texture that seems to fizz with freshness. It has lemony resonance, mouthwatering brightness and a rounded body to back it all up.

Bright and creamy, this white exhibits vanilla, lemon cake and peach flavors, with a light salinity underneath. Vibrant and fresh, with a long, citrus-and pastry-tinged aftertaste. Altogether fresh, elegant and harmonious. Drink now through 2024.

A vague whiff of the exotic floats above the equally Chablis-like nose of floral, iodine, seashore and that lovely hint of tidal pool. Delicious, round and relatively forward medium-bodied flavors possess evident minerality on the dry, firm and refreshing citrus-tinged finish.This is not especially persistent, at least not at present, as the back end is a bit attenuated, yet I suspect that this will round out nicely with a few years of bottle age.

A distinctly cool and saline-inflected nose reflects notes of citrus, quinine and a hint of sea breeze.The delicious, minerally and nicely chiseled medium weight flavors possess very good mid-palate density before terminating in a dry, chalky and almost salty lemon-tinged finish. There is a very subtle hint of warmth and while this isn’t super-complex at present, more depth will almost certainly develop with a few years in bottle. I would add that this is quite crisp in the context of what is typical for the 2018 vintage

Ripe yet cool aromas mix plenty of floral influence with a whiff of wood, iodine and algae. There is very good energy to the well-detailed yet rich middle weight plus flavors that exude evident minerality and salinity on the dry, powerful and palate coating finish. This is a big but balanced wine that is robust to the point of rusticity though I suspect that will age out with a few years of cellaring. But make no mistake, this is a muscular Les Clos.

The 2019 Chablis Saint Martin, which had already been bottled, has a charming nose of fragrant yellow flowers, caramelized pear and hints of chalk, all very well defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, revealing a twist of sour lemon toward the finish. This is a very fine entry-level Chablis that deserves your consideration.

The 2018 Chablis Les Blanchots La Réserve de l’Obedience Grand Cru is blessed with a wonderful bouquet: white peach, quince, Japanese yuzu and subtle ground stone scents, all beautifully delineated. The palate is very well balanced with a lively entry and a touch of licorice (not a trait you often find on Chablis, but it works!). Great energy here and real depth. The slightly viscous finish lingers long in the mouth. A superb La Réserve de l’Obedience, even if not the very best vintage in recent years.

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is more open and engaging on the nose compared with the Les Blanchots. There is slightly more terroir expression here, though I would not claim it superior to some of Laroche’s Premier Crus. The palate is much better, featuring sour lemon, lemon sherbet, sage and dill, quite complex, with a very well-defined and persistent finish. Real Grand Cru on the finish for sure – just cellar this for 3–5 years before broaching.