The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with a reticent bouquet of lemon rind, citrus, hazelnut cream, white flowers and mandarin oil. On the palate, it's full-bodied, both denser and blockier than the Bienvenues-Bâtard, with exceptional concentration, tangy acids and a long finish. Today, the wine is only partially formed, but it's immensely promising. Pierre Vincent told me that it attained 12.8% natural alcohol, but despite that rather modest degree for a grand cru white Burgundy, it displays plenty of power and substance.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru delivers a vibrant but reserved bouquet of lemon zest, white flowers and crushed chalk that is still some distance from displaying all its breadth of expression. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and tensile, with a tight-knit core, searingly intense chalky extract and an electric sense of energy, concluding with a long finish. This is the most linear Chevaliers I tasted in the 2017 vintage, which was typically somewhat more open at the same stage in Anne-Claude's day, so it will be interesting to see how much plenitude it displays in bottle.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane offers up aromas of green apples, tart Anjou pear, spring flowers and mint. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration and chewy extract—Leflaive performed a green harvest on this young vines this year—underpinned by juicy acids and concluding with a pure finish. This is a promising Meursault in the making.

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé derives from multiple parcels in Soultré and which now sees the same élevage as the domaine's wines from Puligny. It's showing well, exhibiting aromas of ripe lemons, beeswax, dried white flowers and blanched almonds, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny-textured palate with more flesh, concentration and length than any of the Mâcon-Verzé bottlings.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon is excellent, and a clear step up over the Puligny Village, something that can't be taken for granted. Offering up aromas of lemon, beeswax, white flowers and blanched almonds, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely concentrated, with tangy acids, chewy extract and a long, precise finish. It's promisingly tight-knit and should develop further before it's bottled.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has an intense and quite powerful bouquet, richer than the Chavy, with scents of dried honey, wax resin, orange peel and peach skin aromas all underpinned by fine mineralité and tension. The palate is very poised and focused, delivering impressive weight and tension and sappy green apple notes mixed with Nashi pear and spices. It just stumbles a little toward the finish, where I would have liked more terroir expression, but otherwise, excellent. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2010 white burgundy tasting in London.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has just a touch of reduction on the nose, but far less than Fichet’s Les Referts tasted alongside, thus allowing the mineralité to show through, along with hints of custard creams and fresh figs in the background. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, offering citrus fruit mixed with black currant leaf and crushed stone, and delivering real tension and penetration toward the finish. This is impressive. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2010 white burgundy tasting in London.

This racy white delivers lemon tart, stone, vanilla and toasted brioche aromas and flavors. Linear and taut, this shows youthful harmony as well as a smoky, sultry finish. Offers excellent intensity, balance and length. Best from 2021 through 2030. From France.

A lush, concentrated white, balanced and fluid, providing an ideal backdrop for the peach, apricot, butterscotch and mineral aromas and flavors. The finish is terrific, with a buildup that stretches out beautifully. Drink now through 2028. From France.

A broad, powerful style, this retains a sense of elegance, displaying lemon cake, peach, honey and spice flavors. Gathers itself on the lingering finish, where a tactile feel emerges. The racy finish shows potential. Drink now through 2030.

This is broad and lush in texture, evoking peach, lemon cream, hazelnut and baking spice flavors. Harmonious enough to enjoy now, yet should develop well over the next decade. Really long, tangy finish. Drink now through 2028.

Though rich, this white is also dense, giving a feeling of intensity to the white peach, citronella and pastry aromas and flavors. Well-proportioned, yet will require some time to really harmonize and reveal all its charms. Long, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2032.

A lean, taut style, with fine concentration to the apple, white peach, lemon zest and baking spice flavors. There is energy and a tactile sensation as this white reaches a crescendo on the long, hazelnut- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2021 through 2033.

This white starts out rich and creamy, offering lemon cake, peach, spring blossom and pastry flavors, gaining focus on the finish, where the vibrant structure emerges. Fine length. Drink now through 2027.

A broad attack signals this rich, powerful white, revealing peach, apple pie and vanilla flavors, with a hint of coffee. Balanced and vibrant on the long finish, where a mineral accent chimes in. Fine intensity and detail. Best from 2021 through 2032.

This white shows its potential as it unfolds on the palate, with honey-drenched peach, apple galette, hazelnut, spice and mineral flavors. The finish reaches a crescendo, with honey, hazelnut and stone elements lingering. Best from 2021 through 2033.

This white is lush, exuding peach, lemon, apple tart and baking spice aromas and flavors. Well-proportioned, if in need of some time to integrate more fully, with a long, complex aftertaste combining fruit, mineral and spice elements. Best from 2021 through 2032.

Apple, lemon cake and honey flavors mark this ripe yet tightly wound style, which is balanced and full of energy, finishing with a mix of fruit, stone and spice notes. Drink now through 2024.

Round and fruity, yet with good cut, showcasing lemon, apple and mineral flavors, with a touch of spice. Citrusy acidity focuses the lingering, tangy finish. Drink now through 2023.

“...mix of lemon cake, peach, citronella, floral and stone flavors, this white is light-footed, yet intense and luminescent. Beautifully integrated acidity drives the long finish, where elements of mineral, citrus and spice linger."