"I’m not one to adhere rigidly to the idea of drinking seasonally: reds when it’s cold, whites and rosés when the weather heats up. This is textbook nonsense that makes it seem as if temperature is the only consideration in choosing a wine. "But this is winter, a time to hunker down. For many, that means seeking pleasure in long, slow cooking. "In Manhattan, where I live, the idea of a hearth may be fanciful, but the warmth of the oven or stove, with a bubbling pot of beans or a simmering stew, serves the crucial figurative function. "The sorts of deep, soulful flavors that...
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Eric Asimov, January 12, 2017