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New Zealand’s Master of Chardonnay

New Zealand’s Master of Chardonnay

"Michael Brajkovich may well be New Zealand’s first Master of Wine, but he is first and foremost the Master of Chardonnay. "Few winemakers are as duplicitously obsessed with the science and the enjoyment of great chardonnay as Brajkovich. His ability to make this pungently expressive, captivating and delicious white juice at Kumeu River Wines is a thing of wonder. The fact that he does it year on year is akin to a vinous miracle. "Of course he has both his mother (and commander) Melba and his late-father Mate to thank. It was their vision to plant chardonnay in Kumeu and...
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Nick Stock, August 15, 2017
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Chardonnay

Chardonnay

"Back then, it went through some dark moments. In California, the trend was to drench the grape's ripe fruit in butter and spice notes by fermenting it in new oak barrels; in Burgundy, home of the most complex and long-lived wines made from chardonnay, growers were having their own issues with wines that began to oxidize after only a few years in collectors' cellars. "As Jon Bonné wrote in W&S's April 2017 issue, the crisis with chardonnay in Burgundy forced growers to reconsider every aspect of their work so that today, on the whole, the wines are better than ever....
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Joshua Greene, August 1, 2017
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The 15 Best Chardonnays Under $50

The 15 Best Chardonnays Under $50

"If you’ve been avoiding chardonnay on the grounds that too many examples are garish and overblown, stop. It’s the most popular white in America—and better than ever. "What to know about the grape? "First, it’s native to Burgundy, where winemakers embrace a spectrum of styles, from steely, edgy, and chalky to creamy, rich, and golden. Chablis in Burgundy’s far north and Mâcon in the south are sources of delicious, reasonably priced bottles, and the two vintages now in shops are excellent. The 2014s are classic, pure, mineral, and savory; the just-arriving 2015s, from a warmer year, are exotic and rich....
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Elin McCoy, March 22, 2017
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The 15 Best Chardonnays Under $50

The 15 Best Chardonnays Under $50

"If you’ve been avoiding chardonnay on the grounds that too many examples are garish and overblown, stop. It’s the most popular white in America—and better than ever."What to know about the grape?"First, it’s native to Burgundy, where winemakers embrace a spectrum of styles, from steely, edgy, and chalky to creamy, rich, and golden. Chablis in Burgundy’s far north and Mâcon in the south are sources of delicious, reasonably priced bottles, and the two vintages now in shops are excellent. The 2014s are classic, pure, mineral, and savory; the just-arriving 2015s, from a warmer year, are exotic and rich."And second, because...
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Elin McCoy, March 22, 2017
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A Look Back, A Glimpse Ahead

A Look Back, A Glimpse Ahead

“… My previously mentioned New Zealand adventure wrapped up in Auckland with a visit to Kumeu River winery where I met Sales and Marketing Manager Paul Brajkovich for a tasting of their portfolio.  Originally founded in 1944 as San Marino Vineyards by Mick and Katé Brajkovich and their son Maté (originally from Croatia), Kumeu River underwent a name change in 1986 as the next generation of the Brajkovich clan decided to focus less on producing basic red and white wines and more on producing Chardonnays made in the style of those from Burgundy.  And trust me when I tell you...
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Allie Albanese, January 31, 2017
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Best of 2016, Part II

Best of 2016, Part II

"As the happy occupant of the World’s Best Job, I believe it is good karma to tip my hat to outstanding performances, wines and accessories that I’ve encountered each year.  Having logged more than 70,000 air miles in 2016 and tasted over 9,000 wines, it is fair to say that I’ve been around the block, and here’s a second set of observations concerning the best things I encountered along the way.  I’ll be tacking new items onto this column every day this week, so stay tuned: Top Category on the Rise:  New Zealand Chardonnay"Among the highlights of my 2016 was...
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Michael Franz, January 10, 2017
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The Vincast Episode 112 – Michael Brajkovich MW from Kumeu River

The Vincast Episode 112 – Michael Brajkovich MW from Kumeu River

The Brajkovich family emigrated to New Zealand from Croatia in the 1930s, bringing with them some experience growing grapes for wine production. After purchasing property just outside of Auckland in the 1940s, the family tended the vineyard for decades until officially launching the Kumeu River brand in 1986. The winemaker is the eldest son Michael, who has not only taken their wines to a world-class level, but also became New Zealand’s first Master of Wine in 1989! Michael was my guest on this episode of The Vincast, sharing his family’s and his own stories. Listen to the podcast on The Intrepid Wino. 
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James Scarcebrook , December 6, 2016
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How New Zealand’s chardonnays are taking on Burgundy, and winning

How New Zealand’s chardonnays are taking on Burgundy, and winning

“Burgundy wines can be insanely expensive. However, for wine lovers willing to explore further afield, less pricey substitutes can be found. “In May last year, a New Zealand vs Burgundy blind tasting was organised in London, testing Kumeu River chardonnays against their Burgundy equivalents. The Burgundy line-up included such highly regarded names as Comtes Lafon, Leflaive, Drouhin, Girardin, Sauzet and Fontaine-Gagnard. “Kumeu River, run by the Brajkovich family, received the highest score in each flight except for Maté’s Vineyard 2009, which drew with Bouchard Père et Fils’ Meursault Perrières 2009. “Wine critic Jancis Robinson remarked, “The Kumeu wines shone because...
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Sarah Wong, August 3, 2016
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Kumeu River: Astonishingly good Chardonnay from this West Auckland family-owned winery

Kumeu River: Astonishingly good Chardonnay from this West Auckland family-owned winery

“We are in West Auckland, in Kumeu. This is the historical heartland of the New Zealand wine industry. Here, Croatian/Dalmatian immigrants to New Zealand decided to make wines like those they were used to at home. Many of the famous names of the New Zealand wine industry have their roots in West Auckland, even though it is no longer such a significant wine producing region— the climate here is quite humid in the summer, which makes viticulture a challenge. “But there's one shining star: Kumeu River, famous as one of New Zealand's top Chardonnay producers, and considered by many to...
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Jamie Goode, June 1, 2016
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Kumeu River: White Burgundy in Kiwi Clothing

Kumeu River: White Burgundy in Kiwi Clothing

"That Old World/New World conundrum is getting a bit old hat, don't you think? Some commentators argue that the concept of the 'New World' is redundant citing the fact that countries such as South Africa, Australia and Argentina can trace their viticultural roots farther back than many European stalwarts. For this writer, this concept retains validity because it reflects the mindset of a majority of wine consumers, however blurred the lines are. It recognizes the fact that while the Old World has enjoyed continuous, uninterrupted wine production over many decades or even centuries, other countries' viticulture was either diminished or...
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May 29, 2015
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