At 79 going on 80, Aubert de la Villaine, the director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), which produces some of the world’s most expensive and rarest wines, is still going strong, running up and down cellar stairs like a teenager, just to keep ahead of schedule. In November, just after the annual Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction festivities, I sat down opposite de Villaine at the domaine’s headquarters in the small town of Vosne-Romanée to discuss a range of topics spanning de Villaine’s many years in the wine business, and reaching into the future as well. I found him friendly, very thoughtful,...
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Roger Morris, May 14. 2018