t was another bone-chilling winter in Northern Hungary, yet among the winemakers of Tokaj this year, hearts were warm and spirits ebullient. For deep in their cellars, bubbled barrel upon barrel of new wine. The 2013 harvest was glorious. Climatic conditions in autumn proved ideal for noble rot, yielding a bumper crop of aszú berries (shrivelled grapes whose sugars are concentrated to ambrosial levels by sun, wind and the Botrytis cinerea fungus), essential for their inimitable sweet wines – Tokaji Aszú, a nectar redolent of honey, spice and tropical fruits once extolled by France’s Louis XIV as “The Wine...
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Jeffrey T. Iverson, March 2014