This wine comes from one of Tokaji's most famous vineyards. It is light amber in color with heady aromas of honeysuckle, freesia, beeswax and honey. It has pleasant heft on the palate and there are intense flavors of tinned peach, clover honey and apricot conserves. It is a well-made and well-balanced wine that ends on a sweet note and makes you want to go in for another and another, sip.

The Szt.Tamás Aszú has a lifted nose of apricot jam, bruised apple and a hint of fresh sourdough. Spiced and honeyed on the palate with ginger and white pepper, grapefruit peel bitterness, marmalade and dried apricot. The acidity is more mellow than the Gold Label, although it still provide an excellent backbone. Ginger and dried fruit notes linger on.

This is more backward compared to Mézes Mály, and very much more citrus driven, featuring lemon peel, orange zest and crushed stone aromas; the Aszú element is more discreet. The finish, vibrant palate is more balanced and harmonious, offering a fine bead of acidity and candied orange peel toward the finish. Edgier than Royal Tokaji’s other 2017s, and perhaps spicier on the finish, this will be fascinating to observe mature in bottle.