The 2010 Moulin-à-Vent is fabulous. Vibrant, fresh and beautifully translucent, the 2010 is magical. Red berry fruit, mint, orange peel and spice all emerge from the glass, with lively acids and persistent beams of supporting tannin that give the wine its shape and overall sense of energy. Yields were 22 hectoliters per hectare, which is lower than average. The 2010 has a very bright future. This is a terrific showing.

The 2011 Moulin-à-Vent offers an intriguing combination of pliant fruit, nervy acids and aromatic complexity. Sweet tobacco, leather, game and earthiness all open up over time. It is a wine that really benefits from aeration. Overall, the 2011 is a vintage defined by its energy.

The 2014 Moulin-à-Vent is one of the standouts in this vertical. The combination of fruit richness, bright acids and energy give the 2014 a sense of vitality that is impossible to miss. Sweet red berry fruit, bright acids, white pepper and mint all come alive in the glass. The 2014 really sizzles with energy and tension. Effusive and energetic, with terrific cut, the 2014 is compelling.

The 2015 Moulin-à-Vent is a real showstopper. A burst of dark cherry, spice, leather, menthol, licorice and leather literally races out of the glass. The 2015 is an atypically rich Moulin-à-Vent, but all the elements are so well balanced. It has serious depth and the intensity to age for many years. I would not touch a bottle soon.

The 2016 Moulin-à-Vent comes across as a more subdued version of the 2015. It has tons of richness and power, but at the same time, it is bright, delineated and full of energy. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, white pepper, mint and spice all meld together effortlessly. Even with all of its obvious intensity, the 2016 retains striking translucence. There is plenty of potential here.

The 2017 Moulin-à-Vent is born from a challenging vintage in which hail took with it half of the estate’s yields and two-thirds of the production of this wine. In the glass, the 2017 is soft, fruit and absolutely delicious. Although not terribly complex, the 2017 is a wine of immediate pleasure and a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Sweet red cherry, cinnamon, and dried flowers add intrigue.

This grows at an eight-acre parcel at the base of the hill in Thorins, where the soil is deeper and holds more water than in the vineyards on the slope. While hail severly cut back the 2017 crop, the fruit that remained created a formidable wine. It cascades with fruit up front, before the tannins tighten around all that floral intensity. Then, with air, it opens further, yielding scents of figs, plums and strawberries, still tight, but the racy fruit flavors last. Decant the bottle if you open it now, to serve with roast squab and wild mushroom.

A selection from 40-year-old vines growing in granite soils with manganese, this wine fermented with some whole clusters (20 perfect) and then aged for 16 months in stainless steel. That élevage preserved the generous depths of fruit in the wine, floral up front, edged with bright tannins and green peppercorn spice in the end. A bold and zesty 2018, this will benefit from a year in the bottle age.

This wine's intensity delivers volumes of tannins and sunny fruit. There's an exciting side to the brightness of the fruit. And there's a volatile side adding a spike of crushed pepper and cured pork, which, if you serve it now, might be the food of choice.

This wine is a blend across the estate, producing rich tannins and juicy black fruits. Good acidity balances the structure of the wine, giving potential as well as present fruitiness. Drink ideally from 2021.

A small harvest because of hail has produced this richly concentrated wine. Dense tannins and impressive black fruits are layered with acidity and a tensely structured character. The wine should be aged further to reveal its full panoply of flavors. Drink from 2022.

This dense, smoothly textured, single-vineyard wine is packed with tannins as well as concentrated blackberry fruits. Its richness, allied to ripeness, comes with a juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2022.

Lightish crimson with soft ruby rim. Even though the percentage of whole bunches is very small, there is an attractive stemmy/herbal freshness to this lifted and aromatic wine. The fruit is definitely in the red spectrum, but tangy and fresh like raspberry and cranberry not sweet like strawberry, or perhaps a hint of wild strawberry as it opens, and rock-dust quality that I associate with granite soils. This is delicate and precise, beautifully scented, suggesting a wine made with the fingertips, which was necessary in 2017...

Mid crimson, a little darker than the 2017, and a little darker fruited and opens up in the glass to a darker and more peppery scent, more peony, a little bit like northern Rhône Syrah, as Édouard Parinet points out – and I agree. This has the classic savoury character of Moulin-à-Vent and still the fragrance of thoughtfully made Gamay on granite, a gently dark-earthed aroma. Makes me think of clean, dark friable earth. Dry, elegant and beautifully balanced. Elegant length and dry finely textured finish even though it is still pretty youthful.

A bigger and more powerful wine from a hotter vintage, which shows in the deeper colour. Much darker in colour than the 2016 and much much darker than the 2017. There’s also a sweetness of spicy black fruit, blackberry and damson, which points to a hotter year and perhaps also some new oak. As it opens up on the day after opening, the scent of the 2016 and 2017 starts to appear though without the floral notes. Also that stone-dust character. On the palate, this is firm, beautifully dry and it’s the tannins that, combined with remarkably good acidity, give the freshness on the long finish. Dry

There are some 2,000 bottles of the 2017 Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour, one of the lieux-dits that was least impacted by the year's hail storms. Revealing aromas of cherries, dark berry fruit, candied peel and vanilla pod, it's full-bodied, layered and chewy, with firm tannins and an oak-inflected finish. There's clearly serious raw material here and thoughtful vilification, too, but I can't help feeling that the wine's fruit is somewhat surpassed on the palate by the supplemental oak phenolics. In short, the question is whether this Moulin-à-Vent will ever become truly charming? My score gives

Mid crimson. Bottled. This was the only cuvée they were able to make in 2017 because of the hail. Red fruit but a little darker than the château blend. A little more spicy. Concentrated fruit on the mid palate, very good depth and intensity and the oak spice just hinted at. Really long and with freshness to the finish. Needs time.

This 7.9-acre parcel faces east on a slope of colluvial deposits from the hills above, the vines growing in granitic sand over clay, producing thick-skinned grapes with relatively high acidity. One-third of this lot aged in barrel, the rest in stainless steel, coming together in an elegant wine that shows its youthful power with finesse. It fills the mouth with silken layers of green plum, pomegranate, herbal spice and floral tension, flavors that last in a complex matrix. Enjoy this over the next four or five years, while waiting for the domaine’s 2016 Les Vérillats to mellow.

Pale blackish crimson. Very shaded. Exotically ripe. Too much so? Almost bloody with fine polished tannins. A little gamey.

From a parcel within one of the top vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent, this wine has weight and spiciness from the wood aging. Its tannins, still young, give both structure and emphasize the richness of the fruit. It provides a fine example of the aging ability of great Beaujolais and will probably not be ready until 2020.