This wine opens with delicate melon, peach and citrus notes, backed by honeysuckle and fresh oats. The palate shows the restraint and poise for which this label is known. It crackles with acidity and a talc-like texture, the pure fruit backed by brioche oak characteristics. Harmonious, varietal and expressive of place, this is a polished bottling for drinking now.

The peach-inflected, medium to full-bodied, the mouthfeel is welcoming and silky, the flavors ranging from yellow peach and grilled pineapple to toasted hazelnuts and even a touch of honey, balanced on the lengthy finish by bright citrus notes.”

Butterscotch, sweet cream and lemon meringue details are succulent and pure, with hints of nutmeg, tangerine, peach and citrus notes that are harmonious and juicy on the finish.

This wine manages to walk the tightrope of richness and finesse, and it does it with swagger. It's no surprise that this powerful, highly concentrated Chardonnay was fermented in new oak barrels after a hiatus in 2018 – it certainly has the stuffing to take it. Hunting Hill is Kumeu's most reductive Chardonnay but its influence remains subtle, bringing the merest flint note and added tension to the nectarine and lemon peel flavors. Poised and well judged.