This is very fresh and has attractively flavorful, punchy fruit presence, in a very pure mode. Strawberries and grapefruit and some pastry and spiced-biscuit to close. Drink now.

The latest rendition of Gosset's NV Grande Réserve Brut is based on the 2014 vintage and was disgorged in February 2018. Aromas of smoky pear, warm biscuits, citrus and wet stones preface a medium to full-bodied, racy but powerful wine with incisive acids, a tight-knit and chalky core and a long, saline finish. Like its rosé counterpart, it's very typical of the house style.

Rich, with pastry and vanilla accents on the nose, this shows flavors of glazed apricot, chopped almond, kumquat and saline, backed by vibrant acidity on the fine and creamy palate. Drink now through 2021.

The citrus-colored NV Grande Réserve Brut—a blend of Chardonnay (45%), Pinot Noir (45%) and Pinot Meunier (10%)—shows an intense, ripe and aromatic yet vinous bouquet with white and delicate red fruit, floral, brioche and nutty expressions. Full-bodied, dry and very fresh, this is a firm, complex, finessed, fruity, round and stimulating cuvée with a good, tight...