95% of 2016 Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from Les Roncières and is aged 40% in used wood and 60% in stainless steel. This offers attractive orange blossom, citrus peel and flinty scents, with just a subtle, almost petrol-like note in the background. The palate is crisp and linear right from the start, the acidity nicely judged and the terroir articulated very well towards the fresh, lively finish that offers judicious bitterness that urges you to take the next sip. Very fine.

Offering up notes of lemon and lime zest, white peach and flowers, the 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes is medium to full-bodied, delicately glossy and stony, with an ample attack that gives way to a pure, precise and attractively mineral finish. While this can be a precocious premier cru, it's an attractively balanced Vaillons that's holding something in reserve.

Lemon cake, apple, flint and stone aromas and flavors are the hallmarks of this vibrant version. Balanced in a steely manner, with a long, detailed finish. Drink now through 2024.