Jean-Pierre Mareigner made this wine and bottled it in 2013; Odilon de Varine, who took over as cellar master in 2016, disgorged the vintage in 2019. It’s two-to-one chardonnay to pinot noir, though the fruit ripeness of the pinot noir contributes more than its fair share of plum and red-blushed peach to the savory depths of flavor. As it opens, the brink yellow-apple flavors develop intensity, the pure flavor of fruit picked fresh, the incipient scent of apple blossoms. Tina Vaughn of The Simone described that fruit depth as “musky, delicious, sexy.”

This offers spiced berry-biscuit aromas and a toasted hazelnut and brioche edge. Berry pastry, too. The palate has a suave, sleek and smooth texture. Finely honed and finishes dry. Flavor and focus here. Drink or hold.

Since Gosset makes a point of commercializing wines only when they deem them ready, the 2012 Grand Millésime Brut will be released at the end of this year, while the 2010 and 2008 continue to wait in the wings. The wine is still quite tightly wound after its recent disgorgement, unfurling in the glass with a youthful bouquet of warm biscuits, apple, lemon and peach that picks up a more pronounced smoky top note as the wine sits in the glass.